Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the magnificent, year-round garden at Stourhead, nature had a helping hand from the
18th-century's most skilled landscapers.
THE best TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
IN WILTSHIRE & SOMERSET
W Soaking in the Thermae Bath Spa: Nothing beats watching the sunset over the
enchanting rooftops of Georgian Bath, as you slowly simmer in the outdoor hot-
spring pool at Thermae. The waters are the same as those enjoyed by the Romans,
but the facilities are definitely 21st-century England. See p. 339.
W Ballooning over Bristol: Float over southwest England's largest city, taking in the
historic docks, River Avon, and Brunel's Clifton Suspension Bridge. Bristol is a lot
more scintillating by air—and surprisingly affordable. See p. 348.
W Meeting the English Gothic at Salisbury: Britain isn't short of pointed arches and
flying buttresses, but rarely has Gothic been expressed so harmoniously as at Salis-
bury Cathedral. It was built in under 40 years, leaving it unpolluted by later styles.
Climb the bell tower for views that stretch far beyond the water meadows so loved
by Constable. See p. 327.
W Exploring the Mendip Caves: Under the southern lip of Somerset's Mendip Hills,
water and limestone have mixed over millennia to create cave formations of great
beauty. Wookey Hole and Cheddar Gorge may be well touristed, but they'll fill
little minds with natural wonder. See p. 356.
W Tasting scrumpy in rural Somerset: West Country apples and a brewing tradition
stretching back longer than anyone can record make Somerset the home of the
traditional, alcoholic cider known as scrumpy. Tour the county's best niche produc-
ers, then visit one of the oldest Christian sites in Britain, Glastonbury Abbey, to
taste their award-winning version. See p. 362 and 358.
8
SALISBURY
, STONEHENGE
& SOUTH WILTSHIRE
90 miles SW of London; 53 miles SE of Bristol
Long before you enter the city, the spire of Salisbury Cathedral comes into view—
just as John Constable and J. M. W. Turner captured it on canvas. The 121-m (404-ft.)
pinnacle of the Early English Gothic cathedral is the tallest in England, but is just one
among many historical points of interest in this thriving county city.
Salisbury, once known as “New Sarum,” lies in the valley of South Wiltshire's River
Avon. Filled with Tudor inns and tearooms, it is also an excellent base for visitors keen
to explore nearby Stonehenge or even Avebury. The old market town also has a
lively arts scene, and is an interesting destination on its own. If you choose to linger
for a day or two, you find an added bonus: Salisbury's pub-to-citizen ratio is among
the highest in England.
Essentials
GETTING THERE Trains for Salisbury depart half-hourly from Waterloo Station
in London; the trip takes under 1 1 2 hours and costs around £39 for a round-trip. The
city also has fast, regular connections with Portsmouth, Bristol, Cardiff, and
Southampton.
 
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