Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
wandering over to the Jericho Tavern for a late-night folk concert. Art lovers can
linger over the Old Masters at the Christ Church Picture Gallery, or head south
to the thoughtful showcase for modern painter Stanley Spencer.
THE best TRAVEL
EXPERIENCES IN THE THAMES
VALLEY & THE CHILTERNS
W Taking a ghostly tour in Oxford: Oxford isn't just dreaming spires, old libraries,
and colleges; it's got ghosts too. Bill Spectre's Oxford Ghost Trails is an entertaining
introduction to the creepy side of the city, a walking tour that takes in plenty of
supernatural stories and sights. See p. 213.
W Cruising on the Thames: England's most-celebrated river is best experienced from
the water. Jump on a boat trip at Windsor, Oxford, or Henley, or take the plunge
and charter your own vessel; in a week you can cruise from the outskirts of London
all the way to the City of Dreaming Spires. See p. 209.
W Hiking the Ridgeway: The Ridgeway National Trail runs for 87 miles from the
Wiltshire Downs to the top of the Chilterns at Ivinghoe Beacon. The trail follows
a prehistoric track through a bucolic landscape of rolling hills and beech forests,
perfect for a day or more of easy hiking. See p. 230.
W Punting the River Cherwell: An hour or two of punting on a lazy summer's day in
Oxford is as English as taking afternoon tea, though admittedly not as easy. Experts
glide through the water like Venetian gondoliers, but be warned—it's lots of fun
but harder than it looks. See p. 217.
W Dining Tudor style at Hatfield House: It is a touch touristy, but the Hatfield Ban-
quets are tasty, entertaining, and a genuine attempt to open a window into the
world of Elizabethan dining. See p. 237.
5
WINDSOR & ETON
21 miles W of London
Windsor is a charming, largely Victorian town, with lots of brick buildings and a few
remnants of Georgian architecture. All this is completely overshadowed of course by
its great castle, which dominates the area like a giant crown of stone. Windsor Castle
has been the home of the royal family since the reign of Henry I some 900 years ago,
a pedigree that makes it an enticing target for day-trippers from London. Despite the
inevitable crowds this is a sight you should not miss; the State Apartments are espe-
cially lavish, adorned with some exceptional paintings from the royal collection.
Essentials
GETTING THERE Trains make the 35-minute trip from Paddington Station in
London (First Great Western) to Windsor & Eton Central (opposite the castle
entrance) every 20 to 30 minutes or so from around 5am to 11pm, with one change
at Slough. Trains run at similar intervals for the 1-hour trip from Waterloo Station
direct to Windsor & Eton Riverside Station (a short walk from the castle). The off-
peak round-trip cost is £8.50 from Paddington and £9.30 from Waterloo.
 
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