Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
waters at the modern Thermae Bath Spa with its open-air pool and views across
the Georgian, UNESCO World Heritage site rooftops. See p. 335.
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Seeing the backstreets of Manchester:
Britain's inner-city regeneration is
summed up by Castlefield, a once-blighted area of warehouses and canals that is
now full of restaurants, bars, museums, and art galleries. The world's first railway
station, from 1830, is the free Museum of Science & Industry. See p. 562.
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Crisscrossing the Tyne (Newcastle):
Sixties art-rockers The Nice once performed
the “Five Bridges Suite” to celebrate the city crossings, but there's now also the
Millennium Footbridge, a curving, modernistic affair that looks like a blinking eye
when it tilts to let boats past. On one side are the city streets, on the other the arts
venues of Gateshead. See p. 661.
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Wandering across London:
Sure, it's a big place. But there's no better way to see
it than on foot. Start, maybe, in Kensington and meander across Hyde Park, down
Piccadilly, into Soho and Covent Garden, up Fleet Street, past St. Paul's, and into
the City, spotting tiny churches and other gems on the way. See p. 73.
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Wondering whether you're actually in a city (South Wales):
Yes, you are; it's St.
Davids, Britain's smallest city, in the far west. It's hardly a small town but the
population of barely 2,000 is bolstered by the thousands of tourists who come for
the nearby countryside and beaches, and the elegant cathedral. See p. 711.
THE
most unforgettable
FOOD & DRINK EXPERIENCES
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Tasting snail porridge at the Fat Duck (Berkshire):
Nothing shows England's
emergence as a culinary innovator more than this multi-Michelin-starred restau-
rant, a window into the singularly creative mind of Heston Blumenthal. The earthy
porridge (snails, oats, ham, almonds) is genius, and dishes such as salmon poached
in licorice gel are a whimsical treat. See p. 201.
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Sampling oysters in Whitstable (Kent):
Slurp on a single bivalve as you walk the
seafront, or have a dozen in a relaxed waterside restaurant. This old fishing town
has transformed itself into the home of the oyster, and the quayside is awash with
stalls, takeout options, and a fish market. See p. 249.
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Browsing at Borough Market (London):
The sight and smell of fresh produce
(and grilling meat) are heaven at this focal point for the real food movement.
Tucked under the railway near London Bridge Station, there's a feel of the past,
combined with the eco-friendly ethics that are so very now. See p. 151.
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Giving yourself up to a restaurant with rooms:
They're all the rage in Wales,
where you can spend a weekend in boutique luxury while eating splendid food.
Tyddyn Llan (p. 743), off the beaten track in Denbighshire in the north, won a
Michelin star in 2010, while Patrick's With Rooms (p. 702) is a family delight fac-
ing the sea in Mumbles, near Swansea.
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Going bulb crazy at the Garlic Farm (Isle of Wight):
The U.K.'s leading garlic
grower is a pungent paradise, with a shop selling many varieties, including smoked
garlic, as well as garlic to grow, and a restaurant serving dishes featuring the farm's
own game, produce, and, of course, garlic. See p. 308.
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Dining with a celebrity chef:
Try Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea (p. 139),
or a whole menu of the outrageous chef 's other places in London; his former pro-
tégé Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley has also blossomed and serves some of the
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