Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
bouche
that is sublime—through dishes that pair skate wing topped with crisp yeast
and a purée of cauliflower; slow cooked pork and tiger prawns with grated egg,
anchovy purée, and deep-fried capers, the surprises keep coming. This is supremely
skillful, playful, flawlessly executed cooking. Forget a long, expensive trip to Spain's
El Bulli; go to the East End instead.
Inside Town Hall Hotel, Patriot Sq., E2.
&
020/7871-0461.
www.viajante.co.uk. Reservations required. Menus
6 courses £60, 9 courses £75, 12 courses £85. Daily noon-2:30pm and 7-11:30pm. Tube: Bethnal Green.
HACKNEY
Moderate
Forman's 1905
TRADITIONAL BRITISH/FISH You may not have heard of
Forman's, but you've probably tasted their smoked salmon somewhere in London—
perhaps at Gordon Ramsay or the Dorchester. Forman's is an established East End
smokery (opened in 1905) run by generations of the same family. At the moment it's a
small, casual venue where salmon reigns supreme, with a few quintessentially British
dishes like rump of lamb on offer, and an all-British wine list. The present owner, Lance
Forman, is a formidable character who when forced to move from his smokery due to
the Olympic Park construction, struck a very good deal and built a new smokery right
opposite the Stadium. Also in the large building is a gallery and event space.
Stour Rd., E3.
&
020/8525-2365.
www.formansfishisland.com. Main courses £11.50-£19.50. MC, V.
Restaurant Thurs-Fri 7-11pm; Sat 9am-noon and 7-11pm. Gallery and Bar Thurs-Fri 5-9pm; Sat-Sun
noon-5pm. Train: Hackney Wick.
DALSTON
Inexpensive
Mangal I
TURKISH You can tell you are in prime territory for
ocakbasi
(open-coal barbecue cooking) in Stoke Newington Road from the aroma of cooking
meat that wafts through the air. Follow your nose just off the main road and you come
to Mangal I. The kelim-hung room might not be the greatest in looks, but it cooks
and serves a succulent mound of meat and vegetables. Feast on the mixed meze while
you're waiting for the herbed lamb
sis
or spicy minced kebabs to appear. You should
book and expect delays in service at busy times.
10 Arcola St., E8.
&
020/7275-8981.
www.mangal1.com. Main courses £9-£15. No credit cards. Daily
noon-midnight. Train: Dalston Kingsland. Also at 4 Stoke Newington Rd., N16 (
&
020/7254-7888
).
North & Northwest London
CAMDEN TOWN
Expensive
York & Albany
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN Camden Town is not
known as a gastronomic destination, so the locals got very excited when Gordon
Ramsay reopened this derelict pub as a fine dining restaurant with rooms. Overseen
by Angela Hartnett, whose credentials include Michelin stars at Murano and the
Connaught Hotel, it's a relaxed place that offers the best dining in the area. Top
seasonal ingredients drive the menu, as in grilled mackerel with red pepper piperade
and saffron aioli; or roast partridge with a perfect smoked garlic pomme purée, spin-
ach, and baby artichokes. Steamed treacle sponge and custard for two brings out the
greedy; tiramisu is perfect. The only downsides are the sometimes slapdash service
and the noise level when the place is full. The early set supper menu is a bargain. It's
a wonderful breakfast place and a small courtyard makes summer dining a treat.
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