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most sought-after venues. Both the Brasserie and the Restaurant share the same chic,
1930s' liner decor, and the same contemporary ethos in the cooking. The Brasserie
is more casual, offering all the current modish mixes of tastes, spices, and inspirations
like chargrilled, Moroccan spiced quail followed by teriyaki salmon with soba noodle
salad. Dishes on the Restaurant menu use more luxury ingredients: langoustines,
foie gras, sea bass that comes with crab, samphire, a truffle beurre blanc, and fennel
salad, and wild game in season. It's all seasonally led, with carefully sourced British
ingredients to the fore.
22 Barge House St., SE1. &   020/7803-3888. www.harveynichols.com/restaurants. Reservations rec-
ommended. Main courses £20-£32; set lunch 2 courses £22.50, 3 courses £35. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat
noon-2:30pm and 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm and 6:30-10pm. Tube: Blackfriars or Waterloo.
WATERLOO & SOUTHWARK
Moderate
Baltic EASTERN EUROPEAN This is our favorite place after a visit to the
Old Vic Theatre, particularly if the actors arrive to eat. It's cool in decor (minimalist
with roof lights and upholstered chrome chairs), but hot on atmosphere—with a
continuous, contented buzz and good jazz. It's owned by Jan Woroniecki who intro-
duced his version of eastern European cuisine at Kensington's Wódka. Like its sister
restaurant, the menu here mixes Polish, Russian, and Hungarian influences to great
effect. Gravadlax salmon marinated in vodka with potato latkes; marinated herring; or
Polish black pudding for starters, then our favorite to follow: A rich goose leg with
beetroot, scallions, and redcurrant is cooked with self-confident skill. There's live jazz
on Sundays, and great cocktails from the bar staff, who mix unusual ingredients like
rhubarb jam or beetroot with proper Eastern European vodkas.
74 Blackfriars Rd., SE1. &   020/7928-1111. www.balticrestaurant.co.uk. Main courses £11.50-£17.50; set
meal 2 courses £14.50, 3 courses £17.50; Sun 2 courses £16.50, 3 courses £19.50. AE, MC, V. Daily noon-
3:30pm and 5:30-11:15pm. Tube: Southwark.
Tapas Brindisa SPANISH/TAPAS Borough Market brings a steady stream of
customers to the area—folk who regard good food as one of life's necessities—so
Tapas Brindisa, which sources its food directly from Spain, is constantly busy. Add to
that a no-bookings policy and a relatively small dining space, and you'll find yourself
with a long wait at popular times. But customers agree that it's worth it, for ambitious
plates like leek soup with manchego cheese; pan-fried cuttlefish with green bean
salad; and clams with butter beans and bacon. Charcuterie is top class (but beware,
it can push up the bill); there's also a selection of cured fish and specialty cheeses
you won't find elsewhere. Partner it with a fino sherry or robust Rioja.
18-29 Southwark St., SE1. &   020/7357-8889. www.brindisa.com. Tapas plates £4.95-£12.50. AE, MC, V.
Fri-Sat 9-11am, noon-4pm, and 5:30-11pm; Mon-Thurs noon-3pm and 5:30-11pm. Tube: London Bridge.
Also at 46 Broadwick St., W1 ( &   020/7534-1690 ); and 7-9 Exhibition Rd., SW7 ( &   020/7590-0008 ).
The City
SPITALFIELDS
Moderate
Hawksmoor AMERICAN/STEAK With its bare brick walls, wooden tables, and
walls covered with photographs, Hawksmoor is every bit the New York steak joint. Its
food won't disappoint steakhouse aficionados either. Hawksmoor prides itself on top-
quality, perfectly aged, generous portions of beef, sourced from the famous quality
London butcher, Ginger Pig, dry-aged for at least 35 days, and cooked exactly to order.
4
 
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