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is as unassuming as the exterior. But persevere, for Australian chef Shane Osborn has
two well-deserved Michelin stars. The set lunch is one of London's greatest bargains.
Where else could you get tuna tartare with avocado crème fraîche, quail eggs, and
fennel dressing, then roast pork with its braised cheek, potato fondant, and spicy
sauce perfectly balanced with pickled apples and apple purée for £23.50? Cheese or
dessert (including pre-dessert) might be a smooth mango velouté with coconut
mousse and Thai basil for an extra £6. The a la carte dinner menu is more ambitious
producing superb dishes that look as beautiful as they taste. Save up for Pied à Terre;
you won't regret it.
34 Charlotte St., W1.
&
020/7636-1178.
www.pied-a-terre.co.uk. Set-price 2-course lunch £23.50; set-
price 2-course dinner £57.50 (desserts £14, cheeses £16.50 per person); 10-course dinner £90; vegetar-
ian £80. AE, MC, V. Mon-Fri 12:15-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6-11pm. Tube: Goodge St. or Tottenham Court Rd.
Inexpensive
Barrica
SPANISH/TAPAS Barrica looks the part—blackboards chalked up with
daily specials, tiled floor, jars of colored pickled vegetables, Spanish posters, hanging
hams, and a wall of wine bottles. This excellent tapas bar has an authentic feeling of
Spain. The menu offers a tempting selection of dishes from around the country,
served in proper small proportions at proper small prices. Those famous hams are
here, of course, but also on offer are pork and oxtail meatballs, ham croquettes, and
more, plus a substantial dish of the day. They take their wine list seriously, so try an
unusual variety or go for their sherry suggestions.
62 Goodge St., W1.
&
020/7436-9448.
www.barrica.co.uk. Tapas £1.75-£15. AE, MC, V. Mon-Fri noon-
11:30pm, Sat 1-11pm. Tube: Goodge St. or Tottenham Court Rd.
MARYLEBONE
Very Expensive
Locanda Locatelli
ITALIAN The setting is sexy with beige leather seat-
ing and etched-glass dividers—it's a great place for spotting the A-list of celebrities
who love the restaurant. But chef Giorgio is a family man and children are just as
welcome, particularly at Sunday brunch. The cooking is superb and portions are
generous with pastas scoring particularly highly. Pan-fried red mullet comes with
Parma ham and warm fennel salad; roast partridge with Swiss chard, chestnut, and
grape is meltingly tender and gutsy. Panettone bread-and-butter pudding has to be the
best in London. The all-Italian wine list is superb, with many bottles under £30 and
a Sicilian at £12, surely the best value in town.
8 Seymour St., W1.
&
020/7935-9088.
www.locandalocatelli.com. Reservations required. Main
courses £26.50-£32.50. AE, MC, V. Mon-Fri noon-3pm; Sat-Sun noon-3:30pm; Mon-Thurs 6:45-11pm;
Fri-Sat 6:45-11:30pm; Sun 6:45-10:15pm. Tube: Marble Arch.
Expensive
L'Autre Pied
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN The younger sister of the
successful
Pied à Terre
(p. 133), this is the domain of young chef Marcus Eaves,
who gained his first Michelin star in 2009 soon after opening. The dark red seating,
hand-painted walls, and wooden tables make a cozy ambience, ideal for the well-
heeled shoppers of Bond Street. The cooking is skillful, with intense flavors brought
to the fore in dishes that range from a starter of ravioli of confit pheasant with savoy
cabbage and a nutmeg and chestnut cream, to a deeply satisfying main dish of roasted
partridge breast and confit leg coming with its own mini-game pie,
choucroûte,
and a
mustard sauce. It's expensive, but the set lunch and pre-theatre dinner is a steal.
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