Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
restaurant in 1996 by restaurateurs Ed Baines and James Poulton. It's a genuinely
lovely setting; its marble surfaces, white tiles, and old wooden furniture fit perfectly
into its new incarnation as a restaurant—albeit one that specializes in fish and sea-
food. Caviar might weigh in at £90 to £150 a serving, but it's the well-priced dishes
like fried sole with beans and sautéed potatoes (£14), and grilled sea bass with scal-
lions, chives, and rosemary salsa and potatoes (£15.50) that please the crowds of loyal
fans. Or do as we like to do: Sit at the bar, order champagne, and toy with an oyster.
16 Brewer St., W1.
&
020/7287-4447.
www.randallandaubin.com. No reservations. Main courses
£7.10-£27. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-11pm; Sun noon-10pm. Tube: Piccadilly Circus or Leicester Sq.
Inexpensive
Mildreds
VEGETARIAN Mildreds may sound like a 1940s' Joan Crawford
movie, but it's one of London's most enduring vegetarian and vegan dining spots. The
large, airy room with a bar at the front can get very crowded, and you'll probably find
yourself sharing a table. The food always hits the spot, and correctly uses organically
grown, seasonal produce. The menu changes daily, but always includes homemade
soups, pastas, and salads. There are dishes like sundried tomato and buffalo mozza-
rella risotto cake; Sri Lankan sweet potato and cashew nut curry; and unusual sides.
45 Lexington St., W1.
&
020/7494-1634.
www.mildreds.co.uk. No reservations. Main courses £7.25-
£9.75. No credit cards. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. Tube: Tottenham Court Rd.
Polpo
ITALIAN Modeled on a
baraco
(Venetian wine bar), the decor here is
perfect, with stripped brick walls, Victorian tiles, wooden floors, and leather banquettes.
A menu of small dishes of regional specialties includes
cicchetti
(Venetian bar snacks) of
asparagus, taleggio cheese, and prosciutto ham or salt cod on grilled polenta, all costing
between £1 and £3. Breads are excellent—try the broad bean, ricotta, and mint brus-
chetta for something different. More substantial tapas-style dishes run from cotechino
(warm, thick-sliced salami) with lentils and salsa verde to a
fritto misto
(mixed fried fish)
or
linguine vongole
(pasta with clams), and there are plenty of vegetarian choices too.
Alas, a no-bookings policy at dinner can mean long waits. A sister “Venetian osteria”
Polpetto,
opened in 2010 above the
French House
pub (p. 167) in the heart of Soho,
at 49 Dean St. (
&
020/7734-1969;
www.polpetto.co.uk; Tube: Leicester Sq.).
41 Beak St., W1.
&
020/7734-4479.
www.polpo.co.uk. No reservations for dinner; reservations recom-
mended for lunch. Dishes £1.50-£11. AE, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-3pm and 5:30-11pm; Sun noon-4pm.
Tube: Piccadilly Circus.
Yauatcha
ASIAN This Asian eatery, describing itself as a modern reinterpreta-
tion of the old Chinese teahouse, is the brainchild of Alan Yau, who won Britain's first
Michelin star for Chinese cooking at his top-of-the-range restaurant, Hakkasan (see
above). At this informal dim sum outlet service is casual, although it's so popular
you're unfortunately rushed through your meal to make way for new arrivals. The
ground floor is quiet; the basement buzzes. Dim sum, among London's finest, is
served for both lunch and dinner, and often takes unusual ingredients like scallops,
Wagyu beef, venison, or king crab.
15 Broadwick St., W1.
&
020/7494-8888.
www.yauatcha.com. Dim sum £3-£12. Set meal for 2 £28.88.
AE, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-11:45pm; Sun noon-10:30pm. Tube: Oxford Circus.
BLOOMSBURY & FITZROVIA
Very Expensive
Pied à Terre
FRENCH You could easily walk past the entrance to one of
London's best restaurants without a second glance. And once inside, the dark decor
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