Where to Dine - New York City 2009 - page 87

where you place your order: by the pound for the meat or by the size
container for the sides. Whatever you ordered, drinks and desserts
included, are checked off, and on your way out, your card is added
up by a cashier. The system is a bit gimmicky and awkward, but all
is forgiven once you dig in and the grease begins to spread on the
brown butcher paper beneath your food. Hill Country is a mecca for
meat lovers, but don't ignore those sides: the cheddar mac and
cheese, beer braised cowboy pinto beans, and the white corn pud-
ding are musts.
30 W. 26th St (btwn Broadway-6th Ave.). & 212/255-4544. www.hillcountryny.
com. Meat $6.50-$20 per pound; sides $4.50-$16. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Wed
noon-10pm; Thurs-Sat noon-11pm. Subway: F, V to 23rd St.

La Pizza Fresca Ristorante PIZZA/ITALIAN When
comparing the top pizzerias in New York, you rarely hear La Pizza
Fresca Ristorante mentioned. And that's a mistake. Those who have
sampled the genuine Neapolitan pizza (one of only two New York
pizzerias certified for authenticity by the Italian organization, Asso-
ciazione Vera Pizza Napoletana ) swear by La Pizza Fresca's quality. To
achieve certification there are a number of qualifications; a wood
burning oven, San Marzano tomatoes, bufala mozzarella, hand-
pressed dough, and all the ingredients must be cooked with the pizza
in the oven. The result is a pizza as good (almost) as you might find
in Naples and as good as just about any other in New York. You can
have your pizza many different ways, including the delicious Quat-
tro formaggi, a combination of four cheeses and a hint of pancetta
(Italian bacon); but for the unadulterated Neapolitan flavor, try the
simple, tomato, bufala mozzarella, and basil pie. Also impressive is
La Pizza Fresca's 800-plus wine list. The restaurant is comfortable
and cozy with low-lighting, exposed brick, and the constant glow
from the pizza oven.
31 E. 20th St (btwn Park Ave and Broadway). & 212/598-0141. www.lapizza
fresca.com. Reservations not accepted. Pizza $9-$19; main courses: $12-$28. AE,
DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-3:30pm; Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm; Sun 5-11pm. Sub-
way: 6 to 23rd St.
INEXPENSIVE
Also consider Danny Meyer's Shake Shack, in Madison Square Park
( & 212/889-6600 ). For healthy burgers, try either outlet of the New
York Burger Co., 303 Park Ave. South, between 23rd and 24th
streets ( & 212/254-2727 ), and 678 Sixth Ave., between 21st and
22nd streets ( & 212/229-1404 ). For a burger with boutique quality
meat, try Brgr, 287 Seventh Ave., at 26th St. ( & 212/488-7500 ).

Finds