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many restaurants, you can make your meal from various small plates
and Rayuela is no exception; the appetizer of camarones con chorizo ,
shrimp in a spicy salsa with fufu , a root vegetable, and thin yucca
fries is a worthy nod to the cuisine of the Dominican Republic and
a worthy complement to the ceviche. Despite the abundance of
small plates, it's hard to ignore Rayuela's entrees, especially the
surena , an Ecuadorian seafood stew of mussels, clams, shrimp, octo-
pus, and scallops in a broth flavored with coconut and garlic. In the
now foodie neighborhood of the Lower East Side, Rayuela offers two
levels: a bustling downstairs lounge and small bites scene where a live
olive tree grows and a more intimate dining room upstairs. On either
floor, Rayuela's food will not disappoint.
165 Allen St. (btwn Rivington and Stanton sts.). & 212/253-8840. www.rayuela
nyc.com. Reservations recommended. Ceviches $12-$17; main courses: $22-$31.
AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 5:30-11pm; Fri-Sat 5:30pm-midnight; brunch
Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. Subway: F, V to Second Avenue.
MODERATE
'inoteca ITALIAN SMALL PLATES The Lower East
Side was once the home to many Kosher wine factories, but you'll
find only Italian wines at cozy 'inoteca. The list is over 250 bottles
long, but even better are the exquisitely prepared small plates that
complement the wines. Though the Italian-language menu is a chal-
lenge, servers are helpful. The panini stand out in their freshness and
their delicacy, with the coppa (a spicy cured ham) with hot peppers
and rucola (arugula) being the standout. The tramezzini, a crustless
sandwich, is nothing like the crustless sandwiches served at high tea.
Here, among other things, you can have yours stuffed with tuna and
chick peas or with pollo alla diavola, spicy shredded pieces of dark-
meat chicken. The “Fritto” section includes a wonderful mozzarella
in corroza, breaded mozzarella stuffed with a juicy anchovy sauce and
lightly fried. Whatever you order, don't rush; 'inoteca is a place to go
slow, to savor both wine and food.
98 Rivington St. (at Ludlow St.). & 212/614-0473. www.inotecanyc.com. Reserva-
tions accepted for parties of 6 or more. Panini $8-$17; piatti(small plates) $8-$11.
AE, MC, V. Daily noon-3am; brunch Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. Subway: F, J, M, Z to
Delancey St.
INEXPENSIVE
Clinton St. Baking Company AMERICAN Though
they are open all day, breakfast and desserts are the best offerings
here. The blueberry pancakes with maple butter and the buttermilk-
biscuit egg sandwich are worth braving the lines for, while the
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