Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9am-10pm. Subway: 1 to Franklin St. Bubby's Brooklyn: 1 Main St. (at Water St.).
& 718/222-0666. Subway: A, C to High St.; F to York St.
The Odeon AMERICAN BRASSERIE For over 2 decades The
Odeon has been a symbol of the TriBeCa sensibility; in fact, the
restaurant can claim credit for the neighborhood's cachet—it was
the first to lure artists, actors, writers, and models to the area below
Canal Street before it was given its moniker. They came to drink,
schmooze, and enjoy the hearty no-frills brasserie grub such as the
country frisee salad with bacon, Roquefort cheese, and pear vinai-
grette; truffled poached egg; grilled skirt steak; moules frites (mussels
with fries); and sautéed cod. Though the restaurant is not the
celebrity magnet it was in its heyday in the '80s, the food, drink, and
that inviting, open, Deco-ish room has withstood the test of time and
has surpassed trendy to claim New York establishment status.
145 W. Broadway (at Thomas St.). & 212/233-0507. www.theodeonrestaurant.
com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13-$35 at lunch; $19-$35 at din-
ner (most less than $21); fixed-price lunch $27. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Fri
noon-11pm; Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 10am-11pm. Subway: 1, 2, 3 to Chambers St.
2 Chinatown
To find the restaurants reviewed below, see the map on p. 71.
INEXPENSIVE
Big Wong King CANTONESE For over 30 years, Big Wong
has been an institution for workers from the nearby courthouses and
Chinese families who come to feast on congee (rice porridge) and
fried crullers for breakfast. They also come for the superb roasted
meats, the pork and duck seen hanging in the window, the comfort-
ing noodle soups, and the terrific barbecued ribs. This is simple,
down-home Cantonese food—lo mein, chow fun, bok choy in oys-
ter sauce—cooked lovingly, and so cheap. If you don't mind sharing
a table, Big Wong is a must at any time of day.
67 Mott St. (btwn Canal and Bayard sts.). & 212/964-0540. Appetizers $1.50-$5;
congee $1.50-$6; soups $3-$5; Cantonese noodles $5.25-$11. No credit cards.
Daily 8:30am-9pm. Subway: N, R.
New York Noodletown CHINESE/SEAFOOD So what if
the restaurant has the ambience of a school cafeteria? I'm wary of an
overadorned dining room in Chinatown; the simpler the better. And
New York Noodletown is simple, but the food is the real thing.
Seafood-based noodle soups are spectacular, as is the platter of
chopped roast pork. Those two items alone would make me happy.
 
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