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in a huge plastic cup for $3. My advice is to get here before
happy hour, grab a seat on one of the few broken ban-
quettes, and keep your eyes open for the guy who gives
out free hot dogs. You'll need one to balance out a bucket
of Rudy's Red. In the summer, Rudy's opens its cement gar-
den for drinks “alfresco.”
Subway Inn, 143 E. 60th St., at Lexington Avenue ( & 212/
223-8929 ). My all-time favorite dive, the Subway has been
around for over 60 years, and I believe some of the regu-
lars have been on their stools the whole time. The red
neon sign beckons from outside while inside, no matter
what time of day, it's dark. The bartender is ancient and
until recently served Schaeffer on tap. The demise of Scha-
effer was troubling, but not much else has changed. The
booths are still wobbly and the models of Godzilla and E.T.
along with other dusty junk continue to decorate the
shelves behind the bar. The last time I visited, I was barred
from entering the men's room by police who were patting
down one of the regulars during a drug bust. You might
find workers from the upscale stores in the neighborhood
and writers searching for “material” slumming at the Sub-
way, but this joint remains the pinnacle of divedom.
what's in the drinks, just know that they are colorful, sweet, and very
potent. On Saturday, the brick wall is the screen for kung fu movies,
while on Wednesday, it's live old- and new-school R&B. To fortify
yourself from those drinks, sample The Den's kitchen creations like
the “Not ya mama's chicken and waffles,” “Bruce LeeRoy's popcorn
shrimp,” “Mississippi Burnin' wings,” or a “soul roll,” The Den's take
on sushi stuffed with, not raw fish, but BBQ pulled pork. 2150 Fifth
Ave. (btwn 131st & 132nd sts.). & 212/234-3045. www.thedenharlem.com. Sub-
way: 3 to 135th St.
Dublin House For years, like a welcoming beacon, the Dublin
House's neon harp has blinked invitingly. This old pub is a no-frills
Irish saloon and the perfect spot for a drink after visiting the
Museum of Natural History or Central Park. There's a long, narrow
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