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Covo Trattoria & Pizzeria ITALIAN “ Covo ” means cave
in Italian and the location of Covo, under the West Side Highway
and down steep steps from Riverside Park, could be called cavelike.
But this covo has a wood-burning pizza and bread oven manned by
a Neapolitan pizza maker, along with an affordable menu of rustic
Italian dishes. Try the paesana pizza, made with tomato sauces,
pecorino cheese, and black olives or an antipasti of bruschetta
slathered with tomato and chick peas. Of the pastas, the homemade
pappardelle with a honey-braised short rib ragu is addictive, while
the rigatoni alla norma (pasta with tomato sauce, eggplant, basil and
fresh ricotta cheese) is the restaurant's signature dish. Save room for
a “secondi” especially the coniglio , braised, tender rabbit served with
olive oil, rosemary, and black olives. The list of Italian wines is
decent and easy on the wallet, but because you are in a covo , the
sound level when it's busy can be deafening. Be prepared.
701 W. 135th St. (at 12th Ave.). & 212/234-9573. www.covony.com. Pizza
$8-$13; main courses $10-$19. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily noon-midnight. Subway:
1 to 137th St.
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