Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
meat emporiums, with a few inventive twists. I gambled by ordering
the chili-rubbed ribeye—would chili obscure the natural flavor of
the meat? It paid off; the chili was subtle and brought out the cut's
essence. If you want your steak straight ahead, the dry-aged prime
strip steak, cooked to perfection, won't let you down. Sides are some-
what steakhouse unconventional: they add pieces of thick, smoky
bacon to the creamed spinach and offer porcini mushrooms on a bed
of polenta as an alternative to mashed potatoes. But it's the meat—
and that you are eating it overlooking Central Park—that makes
Porter House New York so special.
10 Columbus Circle (4th Floor) in the Time Warner Center (at 60th St.).
&
212/823-
9500.
www.porterhousenewyork.com. Main courses: $24-$39. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
Mon-Sat noon-4pm; Sun noon-3pm; Mon-Thurs 5-10:30pm; Fri-Sat 5-11pm. Sub-
way: A,B,C,D,1 trains to 59th St-Columbus Circle.
EXPENSIVE
Ouest
CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN With plush red
banquettes and an intimate balcony area, Ouest is both cozy and
clubby. Service is personable but also professional—so good you'll
need to keep reminding yourself that you are on the Upper West
Side. But what really draws the crowds is chef Tom Valenti's mastery
in the kitchen, especially with meats such as his signature braised
lamb shank or his melt-in-your-mouth braised beef short ribs. The
sautéed skate is perfectly prepared with a simple sauce of parsley and
olive oil, while the baby calamari in a spicy tomato sopressata sauce
appetizer was so good I actually smiled as I ate it.
2315 Broadway (at 84th St.).
&
212/580-8700.
www.ouestny.com. Reservations
required well in advance. Main courses $23-$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs
5:30-11pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11:30pm; Sun 11am-10pm. Subway: 1, 2 to 86th St.
Telepan
AMERICAN Telepan is in an Upper West Side
townhouse with a dining room painted in soothing lime green. The
cool design complements the menu which changes seasonally but
always features farm fresh products. In the spring I was greeted with
fresh ramps, fiddleheads, and young peas in many of the dishes.
There was no fresh produce, however, in the foie gras donuts listed
as a “share.” The “donuts” are dusted with cocoa and cinnamon and
might work as well with a cup of java as with a cocktail. Of the appe-
tizers, the standout was the wild green frittata which came with in-
season ramps. Telepan offers Mid Courses and of them, the pea
pancakes with pea agnolotti looked and, more importantly, tasted
greenmarket fresh. Save room for an entrée, specifically the haddock
with a sweet lobster sauce. Whatever you choose to eat, you'll have
