Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
was hidden over the years by a dropped ceiling. The prix-fixe menu
changes every 2 weeks and matches the decor's sophisticated style.
When I visited in early spring, warm asparagus in a light lemon
vinaigrette was an outstanding first-course option while the lamb
cannelloni (tender pieces of shredded lamb in a wonton-thin
dumpling) made the perfect second-course accompaniment. Of the
third-course options, the striped bass with crushed herbs, potatoes,
and clams was the standout. A selection of cheeses is offered as a
dessert option and it's hard to resist. Downstairs are the more coun-
trified, darker, wood-paneled booths of Café at Country.
90 Madison Ave. (at 29th St.).
&
212/889-7100.
Reservations required. Prix-fixe
$105; 5-course tasting menu $110; 4-course tasting menu $105; 6-course $135. AE,
DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11pm. Café at Country main
courses $15-$27. Mon-Sat 11:30am-3pm and 5:30-11pm; Sun 10:30am-3pm.
Subway: N/R to 28th St.; 6 to 28th St.
MODERATE
Also consider
P.J. Clarke's
, 915 Third Ave., at 55th Street (
&
212/
317-1616;
www.pjclarkes.com), for their old-world charm and leg-
endary hamburger. For a more innovative, experimental hamburger,
try
Rare Bar & Grill,
303 Lexington Ave., between 37th and 38th
streets (
&
212/481-1999
).
Chola
INDIAN Don't let the nondescript, neighbor-
hood Chinese restaurant look fool you, the food of Chola is as good
as you will find just about anywhere in Manhattan. The menu is
extensive and features many vegetarian and vegan options. Of the
vegetarian starters, the
kurkuri bhindi
(crispy okra and red onions
flavored by a lime and
chaat masala
) is not to be missed, while the
non-vegetarian cochin lamb chops, rubbed with southern spices and
served with onions and garlic, is so good that it might tempt a veg-
etarian to cross over to the dark side. Long, crispy
dosas
(thin crepes
stuffed with spiced potatoes and peas), are also available at Chola
and, according to the menu, a favorite of Martha Stewart's. After a
few bites, I concurred with Martha. Of the “Southern Specialties” on
the menu
savitri amma'
s
avail
, vegetables in a yogurt sauce, was
unlike anything I had ever tasted in an Indian restaurant, but very
much want to again. Chicken korma, seemingly a conventional
Indian dish, was anything but at Chola, with the tender roasted
chicken coated in a rich cashew sauce. Probably the best way to expe-
rience Chola and to sample a wide variety of its dishes is to visit the
restaurant for its popular weekend “maharaja” buffet.
Finds
