Where to Dine - New York City 2009 - page 97

Katz's Delicatessen , the city's best deli. remains fab-
ulously old-world despite its hipster-hot Lower East Side
location at 205 E. Houston St., at Ludlow Street ( & 212/254-
2246 ). For more on Katz's, see p. 76.
2nd Avenue Deli 162 E. 33rd St., between Lexington
and Third avenues ( & 212/689-9000 ). After a hiatus of more
than 2 years, the Second Avenue Deli has returned, but now
it's just off Third Avenue, about 20 blocks north of its former
East Village location. That East Village feel is gone, but not
the quality Kosher deli specialties. The standards: corned
beef, pastrami and brisket are as good as you'll get, while
such guilty pleasures as g ribenes (fried chicken skin) and
chicken liver, despite their artery-clogging qualities, are
almost impossible to resist. Unlike other delis, you might
even get a smile from your waiter!
Stage Deli, 834 Seventh Ave., between 53rd and 54th
streets ( & 212/245-7850; www.stagedeli.com). Noisy and
crowded and packed with tourists, it's still as authentic as
they come. The celebrity sandwiches, ostensibly created by
the personalities themselves, are jaw-distending mountains
of top-quality fixings: The Tom Hanks is roast beef, chopped
liver, onion, and chicken fat, while the Dolly Parton is (drum-
roll, please) twin rolls of corned beef and pastrami.
Caesar salad forever—well almost. From the brick oven come pizzas,
including a Provencal pie with ratatouille, goat cheese, and pesto;
entrees such as the delicate polpette (meatballs), served on a bed of
polenta and garnished with a hot green pepper; and wild boar
lasagna that is much less ferocious than it sounds. The restaurant is
loud and seating is on the tight side, but you easily forgive Nizza
these faults once you sample the memorable food and, especially, the
easy-on-your-wallet prices.
630 Ninth Ave (at 45th St.). & 212/956-1800. $8-$12. AE, MC, V. Tues-Sat
11:30am-2am; Sun-Mon 11:30am-midnight. Subway: A, C, E, 7 to 42nd Street.