Where to Dine - New York City 2009 - page 95

good, the original Bleecker Street location is the most old-
world romantic and my favorite. Also at 260 W. 44th St.,
between Broadway and Eighth Avenue ( & 212/391-7560 ),
and 408 E. 64th St., between York and First avenues ( & 212/
935-2895 ).
Lombardi's, 32 Spring St., between Mulberry and Mott
streets ( & 212/941-7994; www.lombardispizza.com). Claim-
ing to be New York's first “licensed” pizzeria, Lombardi's
opened in 1905 and still uses a generations-old Neapolitan
family pizza recipe. The coal oven kicks out perfectly cooked
pies, some topped with ingredients such as pancetta, home-
made sausage, and even fresh-shucked clams. A garden in
the back makes it even more inviting during warm weather.
Patsy's Pizzeria , 2287 First Ave., between 117th and
118th streets ( & 212/534-9783 ). My favorite, and also the
favorite of Frank Sinatra, who liked it so much he had pies
flown out to Las Vegas. The coal oven has been burning
since 1932, and though its neighborhood in east Harlem has
had its ups and downs, the quality of pizza has never
wavered. Try the marinara pizza, a pie with fresh marinara
sauce—but no cheese—that's so good you won't miss the
mozzarella. Unlike the other pizzerias mentioned, you can
order by the slice at Patsy's. Don't be fooled by imitators
using Patsy's name; this is the original and the best.
Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano, 1524 Neptune Ave.,
between West 15th and West 16th streets, Coney Island,
Brooklyn ( & 718/372-8606 ). This unassuming pizzeria has
been at the same spot since 1924 and it makes pizzas almost
exactly as it did 80 years ago—thin crust, fresh sauce, and
mozzarella, and that's about it. Don't even think about ask-
ing for an exotic topping on these pies (and why would
you?). Enjoy it in its simple unadorned glory. Totonno's sec-
ond branch is on the Upper East Side, 1544 Second Ave.,
between 80th and 81st streets ( & 212/327-2800 ). Go ahead
and order the exotic toppings there, but for the real deal,
go to Coney Island.