Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
referred to itself as a “chop house.” They are now known as a steak-
house, but I wish they had remained true to their roots. To their
credit, they are a steakhouse in name only. They not only serve the
basics of a steakhouse—the porterhouse for two, aged, T-Bone, and
filet mignon with the requisite sides such as creamed spinach and
hash browns—they serve chops: lamb chops, prime rib, short ribs,
and most notably, mutton chops. It is the mutton chop that has
made Keens the original that it is. The monstrous cut has two flaps
of long, thick, rich, subtly gamy meat on either side of the bone that
look kind of like muttonchop sideburns. Keens is the real thing,
from the thousands of ceramic pipes on the ceiling (regulars were
given their own personal pipes, including celebrities like Babe Ruth,
George M. Cohan, and Albert Einstein) to the series of rooms on
two floors with wood paneling, leather banquettes, a bar with a
three-page menu of single malts, and the framed playbill Lincoln was
reading at Ford's Theater that infamous evening in 1865.
72 W. 36th St. (at Sixth Ave.).
&
212/947-3636.
www.keens.com. Reservations
recommended. Main courses $26-$45. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Fri
11:45am-10:30pm; Sat 5-10:30pm; Sun 5-9pm. Subway: B, D, F, N, R, W, Q, V to
34th St./Herald Sq.
Molyvos
GREEK When Molyvos opened in 1997 it was her-
alded as a trailblazer of innovative Greek cuisine. A decade later,
upscale, innovative Greek is the current “in vogue” cuisine in Man-
hattan. Molyvos's success is based on its ability to please those who
want simple, traditional Greek food as well as exciting, Greek-
accented creations. For those who like their Greek unadulterated,
you won't go wrong with cold
mezedes,
such as the spreads
tzatziki,
melitzanosalata,
and
taramosalata,
and hot
mezedes
like spinach pie
or grilled octopus. For Greek food with an edge there's ouzo-cured
salmon on a chickpea fritter or the terrific seafood Cretan bread
salad. Just a sampling of the
mezedes
should be enough for anyone's
hearty appetite but with entrees as good as grilled
garides,
wild head-
on prawns barbecued “souvlaki-style” and the
chios
pork and
gigante
bean stew, not ordering one would be a mistake. The sommelier will
pair your choices with a Greek wine, of which there are many. Or,
skip the wine and sample one or two of the dozens of ouzos, but
don't skip the desserts. Sure you've had baklava before, but have you
ever had chocolate baklava? It's as good as it sounds.
871 Seventh Ave. (btwn 55th and 56th sts.).
&
212/582-7500.
www.molyvos.com.
Reservations recommended. Main courses $17-$29 at lunch (most less than $20);
$20-$36 at dinner (most less than $25); fixed-price lunch $24; pretheater 3-course
dinner $36 (5:30-6:45pm). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs noon-11:30pm; Fri-Sat
