Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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6pm, is well worth checking out for its award-winning cheeses. It's located next to a small
grocer where you can pick up other goodies for a lo vely picnic.
4 CALISTOGA & NAPA VALLEY
Napa Valley is the countr y's most celebrated wine-gr owing region. Less than 30 miles
from end to end, this fertile area is covered in vineyards and accessorized with world-class
wine-tasting rooms, excellent restaurants, and marvelous resorts and inns. It's paradise for
couples with time to r elax. For families, it's welcoming but will r equire some flexibility.
Many of the v alley's copious bed and br eakfasts are not open to childr en; room occu-
pancy may be limited to two people, no inter connecting r ooms may be av ailable, or
children may be expr essly discouraged. Like wise, a number of r estaurants may not be
appropriate for young children.
That said, w e have found ways to enjo y Napa with the kids. R omantic B&Bs aside,
several family-friendly motels grace the ar ea, and many hav e swimming pools. M y sug-
gestion is to head straight to Calistoga, at the nor thern edge of the N apa Valley. Well-
preserved and historical, Calistoga offers the best of the N apa Valley in terms of
relaxation. The restaurants are more casual than down valley, and with the great wine to
be had with your meal, it's fortunate that most hotels are within walking distance.
The fastest route to Napa Valley is to cross the Bay Bridge (I-80) and continue east on
I-80 until you see the Napa/Highway 29 exit near Vallejo. Highway 29 is the main road
through the N apa Valley. F ollow it past Yountville, O akville, S t. H elena, and driv e
another 8 miles until y ou reach Calistoga. An arrow on the right dir ects you into town.
Once there, you won't need to face infamously cr owded Highway 29 until it 's time to
head back to San Francisco.
WHAT TO SEE If you gather the strength to drag the kids away from the pool, horse-
back riding past the r edwoods in Bothe-Napa Valley State Park includes some histor y
of the area delivered by the knowledgeable guide. Old Faithful Geyser, one of only three
such geysers in the world, wor ks full-time blowing off steam. The 350°F (177°C) water
spews out to a height of about 60 feet ev ery 30 to 40 minutes depending on bar ometric
pressure, the moon, tides, and tectonic str esses. (The Exploratorium, on p. 160, in S an
Francisco, has an exhibit on geysers if y ou want to learn mor e.) The performance lasts
about a minute, but you can stay as long as you like, picnicking and waiting for the next
explosion. It's located just nor th of Calistoga off H ighway 29 at 1299 Tubbs Lane. I t's
open daily from 9am to 6pm in summer and 9am to 5pm in winter; call & 707/942-
6463 for more information. Admission is $8 adults, $7 seniors 60 and up, $3 children 6
to 12, and free for children under 6. (AAA cards give you a $1 discount.)
Biking around the v alley is another option. R entals are available at Calistoga Bike-
shop (1318 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga; & 707/942-9687; www.calistogabikeshop.com), or
you can reserve a guided bicycle winery tour with lunch or kayaking tour thr ough Get-
away Adventures ( & 800/499-2453 or 707/568-3040; www .getawayadventures.com;
office closed weekends). Soaring above the valley in a hot-air balloon is a co veted early-
morning adventure apparently, given the number of tour operators in N apa alone. Bal-
loons Above the Valley ( & 800/464-6824 or 707/253-2222; www.balloonrides.com)
provides pickup and dr op-off within N apa Valley, a pr eflight snack, and post-flight
brunch. The cost is $210 per person and $145 per child 12 and unde, with an additional
11.5% service fee—although you can often find discounts on their w ebsite. Bonaventura
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