Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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“Gold Mountain.” Intending to send their riches home, they found life in California
didn't quite liv e up to their expectations. F irst emplo yed in the gold mines and later
working on the railroads, Chinese laborers were essentially indentured servants and faced
constant prejudice.
The 1906 ear thquake and fir e destroyed much of Chinato wn, and Chinese r efugees
swamped relief camps in S an Francisco and O akland. A gr oup of city officials tried to
permanently relocate them outside the city center , but the thr eat to political r elations
with China and the potential loss of lucrativ e Asian trade to other w estern ports put an
end to this plan. S o Chinatown continued to gr ow and thrive, in par t because Chinese
people were not allowed to buy homes outside of the area until 1950. Today Chinatown
remains one of the most densely populated neighborhoods in the countr y and has
become a top tourist attraction in the ar ea. To the local r esidents, Chinatown is a com-
plete community—where they shop, socialize, attend school, exercise, worship, and play.
The crowds of tourists don't seem to faze anyone—not the grandmas with babies tied to
their backs, the groups of schoolchildren, the senior citizens practicing tai chi in the park,
or the masses of determined S aturday shoppers.
Any cable car will dr op you in or near Chinato wn. Walking around Chinatown, div-
ing into the shops, sampling por k buns, and ey eing the side walk fr uit and v egetable
displays can be more than enough entertainment for an afternoon. But, just in case, here
are some specific stops that will enhance y our tour. If you want ev en more guidance,
check out the self-guided tour of Chinato wn in chapter 7.
Chinese Culture Center
Ages 10 and up.
Cross the pedestrian bridge on the east
side of Portsmouth Square that leads directly into the third floor of the Holiday Inn. This
is the home of the Chinese C ulture Center. Within its small well-lit gallery, ever-chang-
ing exhibits may featur e photographs of pr e-earthquake Chinato wn, Chinese br ush
paintings, or
liu li
(glasswork) by contemporary Chinese artists. Entrance is free and the
center is small. Kids won 't have a chance to get bor ed and they 'll likely see something
beautiful. The center also offers classes and walks. I
6
t's a good r esource for locals and
visitors with an interest in Asian art and culture.
750 Kearny St., 3rd Floor.
&
415/986-1822.
www.c-c-c.org. Free admission. Tues-Sat 10am-4pm.
The Chinese Historical S ociety of A merica
Ages 10 and up.
This is a good
place to develop an appreciation of the Chinese experience in California, and also worth
a quick drop-in to add a little gravity to y our day before digging into that dim sum. A
museum and research center, the Historical Society documents the fascinating history of
the Chinese in California through photographs, art, and changing exhibits. Its bookstore
stocks children's titles as w ell as fiction and nonfiction on Chinese themes. The center
also hosts occasional tours during the year, such as a “Ghosts of Chinatown” tour before
Halloween, at additional cost.
Fun Facts
Stump the Tour Guide
Question:
Where did Thomas Watson answer the phone when Alexander Graham
Bell made the first transcontinental telephone call from New York City?
Answer:
At the now long-gone Pacific Telephone and Telegraph Company on Grant Ave-
nue and Bush Street, San Francisco, on January 25, 1915.
