Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
156
1
THE TOP ATTRACTIONS
Alcatraz Island
Ages 10 and up.
S panish for “ pelican,” Alcatraz was so
named in 1775 by Juan Manuel Ayala for the birds that nested there. From the 1850s to
1933, the militar y used Alcatraz as a for t to pr otect the bay 's shoreline. In 1934, the
government converted it into a maximum-security prison to house the countr y's most
hardened criminals, including Al Capone, “Machine Gun” Kelly, and Robert Stroud (the
Birdman). G iven the sheer cliffs, frigid waters, and tr
eacherous curr ents, the Alcatraz
prison was considered inescapable.
I first toured Alcatraz when I was 12, and nev er forgot it. S tories of escape attempts
and the harsh conditions on the island fascinated me. F amilies today will be no less
moved by the audio tour, which features narration by former guards and prisoners. One
story details ho w over several weeks three prisoners patiently enlarged the air v ents in
their cells with spoons and crafted dummy heads that appear ed to be sleeping so they
could escape o vernight undetected. You even get to see the dummy heads, a detail my
kids enjoyed. Another story details a gruesome shoot-'em-up escape attempt, which may
be the par t teenage boys most enjoy. The audio tour giv es a wonder fully rich and eerie
sense of what it was like to be isolated in the middle of the bay—with unforgiving winds
blustering through the barred windows and armed guards pacing the gun galley—yet so
achingly close to the beautiful city of S an Francisco.
With such a captiv ating histor y, it's no wonder Alcatraz has been the subject of so
many Hollywood movies, including
Birdman of Alcatraz, Escape from Alcatraz,
and
The
Rock.
My bet is that most young kids will enjoy the trip, which after all starts out with a
fun ferry ride acr oss the bay, although par ticularly sensitive children could get spooked
by some of the audio tour 's eerier details. Wear jackets (it 's quite brisk out on the bay)
and comfortable shoes—you'll be doing lots of walking. The ferry sells snacks, but y ou
may want to bring some munchies along because the whole trip could take up to 2
1
/
2
hours. Also, reserve for Alcatraz well in advance. I recommend booking the earliest ferry
possible—the island will be less cr owded and your kids more energetic.
In addition to doing the audio tour of the cell block, those visiting during fall and
winter can view an orientation video about the island itself and tour the grounds outside
the prison on a walking path. ( The trail is closed during bir d-nesting season from mid-
Feb to early Sept.) Older kids who don't frighten easily might enjoy the spooky “Alcatraz
After Hours” tour. The ferry departs at 6:15 and 7pm during the summer; at 4:20 and
5:10pm in winter. Tours are Thursday through Sunday only. (Fares for the evening tour
are $33 for adults, $31 for seniors 62-plus, $32 for kids 12-17, $20 for kids 5-11.)
Pier 41, at Fisherman's Wharf, the Embarcadero.
&
415/981-7625
for information and tickets. www.nps.
gov/alcatraz f or inf ormation or w ww.alcatrazcruises.com f or tickets . A dmission (includes f erry): $26
adults, $25 seniors 62 and older , $16 childr en 5-11, fr ee children 4 and under . Audio $8 adults , $5.50
children 11 and under and seniors . Daily in wint er 9:30am-1:55pm; daily in summer 9:30am-3:55pm.
Ferries run appr oximately every half-hour. Arrive 30 min. bef ore ferry depar ture in summer ; 45 min.
before in winter. Muni: F-Market streetcar; Powell-Mason cable car; or no. 30-Stockton bus, which stops
1 block south.
6
Angel Island
All ages.
Some weeks before writing these words I watched Angel
Island, the Bay's largest island, ablaze from my home office window. Probably caused by
a campfire, in late 2008 to wering flames burnt mor e than half of the isle 's 740 acr es.
Fortunately, the fire did not claim any historic buildings from Angel Island's rich past. It
has served as a M iwok Indian hunting and fishing gr ound; a por t for S panish, British,
