Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
DRY TORTUGAS NATIONAL PARK
After all those keys, connected by all that convenient road, the nicest islands in the ar-
chipelago require a little extra effort. Ponce de León named them Las Tortugas (The
Turtles) for the sea turtles that roamed here. A lack of freshwater led sailors to add a 'dry.'
Today the Dry Tortugas are a national park under the control of the National Park Service
and are accessible by boat or plane.
Originally the Tortugas were the US's naval perch into the Gulf of Mexico. But by the
Civil War,
Fort Jefferson
, the main structure on the islands, had become a prison for
Union deserters and at least four people, among them Dr Samuel Mudd, who had been
arrested for complicity in the assassination of Abraham Lincoln. Hence, a new nickname:
Devil's Island. The name was prophetic; in 1867 a yellow-fever outbreak killed 38 people,
and after an 1873 hurricane the fort was abandoned. It reopened in 1886 as a quarantine
station for smallpox and cholera victims, was declared a national monument in 1935 by
President Franklin D Roosevelt, and was upped to national park status in 1992 by George
Bush Sr.
The park is open for day trips and overnight camping, which provides a rare phenomen-
on: a quiet Florida beach. Garden Key has 13 campsites ($3 per person, per night), which
are given out on a first-come, first-served basis. Reserve early by calling the National Park
Service. There are toilets, but no freshwater showers or drinking water; bring everything
you'll need. The sparkling waters offer excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities. A
visitor center
is located within fascinating Fort Jefferson.
If you're hungry, watch for Cuban American fishing boats trolling the waters. They'll
happily trade for lobster, crab and shrimp; you'll have the most leverage trading bever-
ages. Just paddle up and bargain for your supper. In March and April, there is stupendous
bird-watching, including aerial fighting. Star-gazing is mind-blowing any time of the year.
GETTING THERE
If you have your own boat, the Dry Tortugas are covered under National Ocean Survey
www.drytortugas.com/
; Historic Seaport) operates a fast ferry between Garden Key and the
Historic Seaport (at the northern end of Margaret St). Round-trip fares cost $165/120
per adult/child. Reservations are recommended. Continental breakfast, a picnic lunch,
snorkeling gear and a 45-minute tour of the fort are all included.
