Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
reach the BLM office from Garberville/Redway, follow signs to Shelter Cove; look for the
roadside information panel, a quarter mile past the post office. Information and permits are
also available from the BLM in Arcata .
Fire restrictions begin July 1 and last until the first soaking rain, usually in November.
During this time, there are no campfires allowed outside developed campgrounds.
North of the King Range
Though it's less of an adventure, you can reach the Lost Coast's northern section year-
round via paved, narrow Mattole Rd. Plan on three hours to navigate the sinuous 68 miles
from Ferndale in the north to the coast at Cape Mendocino, then inland to Humboldt Red-
woods State Park and Hwy 101. Don't expect redwoods; the vegetation is grassland and
pasture. It's beautiful in spots - lined with sweeping vistas and wildflowers that are pretti-
est in spring.
You'll pass two tiny settlements, both 19th-century stage-coach stops. Petrolia has an
all-in-one store ( 707-629-3455; 9am-5pm) which rents bear canisters and sells supplies
for the trail, good beer and gasoline. Honeydew also has a general store . The drive is en-
joyable, but the Lost Coast's wild, spectacular scenery lies further south in the more re-
mote regions.
Shelter Cove
The only sizable community on the Lost Coast, Shelter Cove is surrounded by the King
Range National Conservation Area and abuts a large south-facing cove. It's a tiny seaside
subdivision with an airstrip in the middle - indeed, many visitors are private pilots. Fifty
years ago, Southern California swindlers subdivided the land, built the airstrip and flew in
potential investors, fast-talking them into buying seaside land for retirement. But they
didn't tell buyers that a steep, winding, one-lane dirt road provided the only access and that
the seaside plots were eroding into the sea.
Today, there's still only one route, but now it's paved. Cell phones don't work here: this
is a good place to disappear. The town, though sleepy and bland, offers surfing (beginners
to advanced), sea kayaking, fishing, whale-watching from the shore and fantastic tide
pooling; a short drive brings you to the stunning Black Sands Beach stretching for miles
northward. You can rent surf boards, kayaks, wetsuits and more at the Lost Coast Surf
Shack (surfboards $25 per day, kayaks half/full-day $45/70;
10:30am-4:30pm) .
 
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