Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
COW HOLLOW, PACIFIC HEIGHTS
& THE MARINA
These mostly residential areas are stocked with cafes, pubs, and trendy bistros that
come and go. If you're stuck for a place to eat, take a walk down Union Street,
Fillmore Street, or, to a lesser extent, Chestnut Street, and peruse the menu
boards, but be warned that the prices cater to the areas' wealthy residents more
than to scrimping tourists.
$$-$$$ The kind of barn where you wouldn't feel embarrassed to spill a beer,
Left at Albuquerque 9 (2140 Union St.; % 415/749 - 6700; www.leftatalb.com;
daily 11am-11pm; AE, MC, V) does filling barbecue, enchiladas, fajitas, nachos,
and the like, all under the soothing glare of TV screens quietly showing the latest
sporting event. The corn chowder ($4.50/cup) is heartier than you'd expect for
corn chowder, and the Chuck Wagon Baby Back Ribs ($15/half rack) and the
salmon filet smeared with barbecue spices ($16) hit the spot for folks craving rib-
sticking Southern food. Most main dishes cost around $12, so you won't be stress-
ing out about how much you spent even as you kick up your heels with a brew.
$$-$$$ The clubby energy of the lively and moodily lit Betelnut 55 (2030
Union St.; % 415/929 - 8855; www.betelnutrestaurant.com; daily 11:30am-11pm;
AE, MC, V) is highly theatrical, as are the dishes (and the waiters too, dressed in
tunics!). Created by a Malaysian chef, it gives a survey of the best of South Asia,
with lots of aromatic dumplings, noodle bowls, and fiery offerings that don't water
down the spice in deference to wimps (many are powerfully flavorful). Satisfying
yourself with just a single visit can be tricky, because the garlic and spice smells
wafting off other diners' tables will make you wish you'd ordered that , too. Starters
and entrees are all about the same price ($10-$12), probably because appetizers are
portioned for sharing, although I find the main dishes (such as “little dragon”
dumplings of pork and shrimp with ginger vinegar) filling enough by themselves.
I also find the laksa, a coconutty and warm soup of seafood and noodles, hits the
spot, and the edamame drenched in spices and garlic are a sticky-fingered addic-
tion. The restaurant also homebrews its own beer, but it's served cold and it's not
so rich that it overpowers the Asian flavors. Come weekend nights, when even fam-
ilies and groups swing in, you can't get a seat without a reservation, although there
is a bar, beneath gently swinging Malaysian-style leaf fans, to tide any wait.
$$$$ Most entrees at Laïola (2031 Chestnut St., near Fillmore; % 415/346 -
5641; www.laiola.com; reservations not accepted; daily 5:30-10:30pm; AE, MC,
V)—pronounced Lye oh la— cost around $22, but that doesn't matter all that
much—folks in the know come here to load up on the appetizers. Everything at
this dim and woody restaurant, which is good for groups on a classy night out,
honors genuine Spanish cuisine, even the wines, all of which on the lengthy list
come from that country. Chef Mark Denham's ideas kick off some bold
California-meets-Spain flavors, such as wrapping local peaches in La Quercia
jamon and then warming them to blend sweet and salty; or frying almonds in
olive oil and dusting them with cracked pepper as an amuse bouche. Most appe-
tizers—think of them as tapas—are $10 each. That means you can save some
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