Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A QUICK LAY OF THE LAND
Picture the whole area as a long uppercase U in which the two top tongs are
pinched together around a light mountain range.
On the “left,” or western tong, of the U is Sonoma County, where the princi-
pal north-south road is U.S. 101, which goes straight to the Golden Gate; in
Napa County, the eastern half, the main road is Highway 29, which can be slow
going, especially around rush hour.
At the bottom of the U, the town of Sonoma connects to the town of Napa,
30 minutes east, via 121/12. That's also where the 37 links Napa County to the
101, as well as to Vallejo and I-80; either road can take you back to the city,
although the 101 is probably faster.
North from Napa, the principal towns, which gradually grow smaller and
quainter, are Yountville, Oakville, St. Helena (all adorable but relatively expensive
towns of boutiques and wineries), and finally the Main Street town of Calistoga
(known for hot springs). Not far north from that, 29 turns into 128 and links up
with Geyserville, at the tippy top of the Sonoma wine region.
From there, heading south through Sonoma County, you hopscotch between
populous towns and quiet hamlets. First is Healdsburg (a cute weekenders' town
square good for strolling), and Santa Rosa (bigger and with cheaper motels, but
no wineries to speak of within it; there is an airport here). Route 12, also known
as Sonoma Highway, branches off to the east there, taking you through Kenwood
and the charming town of Glen Ellen, and finally Sonoma, the county's historic
seat. West and southwest of Santa Rosa along 116 are the towns of Sebastopol and
Forestville, and, finally, Guerneville, where the thick redwood forests begin in
what's called the Russian River Valley. The vibe here is more laid-back, and in
summer, the big pastimes are canoeing and swimming. Guerneville is also a well-
known gay resort town, particularly in summer, although you won't find that it
rages often with parties; the visitors tend to be a bit more middle-aged and set-
tled. For a resource on gay-friendly and gay-specific resorts and restaurants, go to
www.gayrussianriver.com
.
The character of the two counties varies slightly. Whereas Napa is mostly ver-
dant farmland and some small towns, Sonoma has a few larger communities
(Santa Rosa) and its topography is much more varied. There's rolling hills and
farms in the east, which gives way to deliciously damp redwood forests in the mid-
dle west, to wild and undeveloped seashore. (Remember Hitchcock's
The Birds?
It
was shot in Bodega Bay, on the Sonoma Coast. It's still just as rustic now,
although it's about 30 minutes' drive through forests from what is considered
Wine Country.)
I don't personally think it matters where you start, because loveliness and good
wine can be found everywhere in the region.
Important note:
Both counties possess towns of the same name; when I'm
talking about the town, I leave off the “County,” and of course, when I'm talking
about the county, I specify it.
WHEN TO GO
Because the area is a major draw from the cities in the Bay Area, you'll find that
crowds build when people are normally vacationing. Summers, when tourism and
accommodations prices are at their highest, are ludicrously busy, and the lines of
