Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
12:30pm on Tuesdays, it offers its Noontime Concerts ($5 suggested donation),
live performances of classical or sacred music by single artists or small ensembles.
The newer version of Old St. Mary's Church, the Roman Catholic Cathedral
of Saint Mary of the Assumption (1111 Gough St., at Geary Expressway; % 415/
567-2020; www.stmarycathedralsf.org) isn't usually described with the esteem of
its predecessor, although the reason for that is its progressive architecture. I would
describe this blocky monument as swooping, concrete-heavy beehive layers with
mesmerizing geometrics, but critics are more succinct, linking its profile to that
of a washing machine (for sins?) by calling it “Our Lady of the Maytag.” (Not
really astute, since the real Mr. Maytag is making good beer across town—see
p. 137). Either way, the style may have been cool in 1969, but in the '80s and
'90s, it went through a period when it was out of favor, and only now is it becom-
ing something considered hip again. The 4,842-pipe organ is balanced precari-
ously on a relatively narrow pedestal. Docents, when they're on duty, are dressed
in red jackets; the best times to find one is Saturday and Sunday from 9am to
noon and Sunday following the 11am Mass (about noon). Open services are held
Monday through Saturday at 12:10pm, and the best time to go on Sundays is
11am, when the full choir is in attendance.
On Sunday mornings from 9:30 to 10:30am, just before services, Grace
Cathedral (1100 California St., at Taylor; % 415/749-6348; www.gracecathedral.
org) hosts its free, long-running Forum speaking series, which books experts in
spirituality, politics, the arts, and activism. You really never know what kind of
personality will be appearing, but expect an intellectual, not overtly emotional
approach to spirituality. One day, it might be an author and expert on food safety
in America, another week could bring Pico Iyer or theater director Carey Perloff,
or you could even catch Father Guido Sarducci (comic Don Novello) himself.
Such activities designed to edify the general public are not commonly undertaken
by cathedrals anywhere. The cathedral doesn't stop there, though; it programs a
fascinating slate of events all year, most of which you'd never peg for a holy place.
One New Year's Eve, I was able to attend a $10 screening of a restored copy of the
1929 classic film The Phantom of the Opera that was accompanied by a live musi-
cian on the sanctuary's mighty organ. Check its website to see what's coming.
HOW LOCALS HELP
San Francisco, it must be said, is one of the more troubled cities in America. Its
homeless problem is fearsome. Thus, there are heaps of opportunities for volun-
teering, many of them requiring commitments as short as a day. Needs change
almost daily, so check the following websites to see what volunteering organiza-
tions require in the way of manpower.
The concept at One Brick (www.onebrick.org) combines volunteering with
socializing. After events (which take 3-4 hrs.) are over, the collected volunteers are
invited to go out for a beer or food together. The notion has taken flight in sev-
eral American cities in addition to San Francisco. Because it enables you to insin-
uate yourself into the community on two levels, through volunteering and
meeting people, this is the one I recommend—if it has something going on that
you can do, which it may not always have. Other organizations that can hook you
up with shorter volunteer opportunities of all kinds include Hands On Bay Area
(www.hosf.org) and The Volunteer Center (www.thevolunteercenter.net).
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