Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Chinatown
Chinese immigrants first arrived in San Francisco way back in 1848,
although no one can pretend they were treated with much equanimity. It
seems like everything the government did was directed at trying to force
them back to China. For years, Chinese immigrants survived by hook and
by crook, doing the hard labor that no one else would do. Anti-Chinese
laws were in effect for generations, and it wasn't until the mid-20th cen-
tury that the government wised up and began protecting Asian émigrés.
The 1906 quake was a blessing in disguise for many, because the loss of
most public records enabled Chinese men to claim that they were always
American citizens, something the government could not disprove, and
then bring over family to live.
When you're part of a despised minority, you're more likely to live in an
enclave with other people like you. Because of its proximity to the
wharves in the mid-1800s, Chinatown became home to laborers and devel-
oped into its own ethnic universe. In recent generations, locals have clev-
erly dressed buildings with fake pagoda roofs and other visitor-friendly
touches like the dragon street lamps, which had the intelligent effect of
creating a tourist destination out of an area that was once avoided and
feared. In 1970, the distinctive green-tiled gate at Grant and Bush was
erected—but, it's interesting to note, as a gift from the government of
Taiwan, not by the Chinese. Today, Chinatown is a top place to wander into
little family-run stores and tea shops, absorbing another culture. But don't
be deceived; it's still home ground for poor immigrants. The local newspa-
per recently estimated that 60% of the housing units in Chinatown still
share kitchens and bathrooms.
First-time visitors to Chinatown should walk north on Grant Avenue,
where the widest range of shops is located. The good stuff starts north of
California Street. By Broadway, the neighborhood segues to the Italian
bakeries and butcher shops of North Beach. The street parallel and to the
west, Stockton Street, is where more local Chinese go, and its selection of
Asian grocery stores sell some fascinating foods. Unlike many Chinatowns,
the people here largely speak English, so don't be shy about asking ques-
tions about the foods or items that you see on the shelves.
For a more in-depth look at Chinatown, check out the walking tour that
includes it. You'll find that on p. 162.
time to collect works, none of which will be interesting if you don't care about the
subject. If you'd like to gauge whether the collections are for you before trekking
across the water, the museum keeps about 7,000 images and documents online
(http://collections.museumca.org).
