CHINESE CONTAINER GARDENS - Growing Chinese Vegetables in Your Own Backyard - page 186

A close second, in my opinion, are the old galvanized-iron washtubs, which have
the advantage of convenient side handles and a surface that lends itself to either the
simplest or the most elaborate artistic treatment. Just use a spray can for an occasional
change of color or elaborate decoration. For drainage, simply pry the bottom loose of
its rim in four places and cover these openings with gravel.
Under-pot protection. Containers need some sort of saucer or tray underneath to catch
water. On a windowsill or table this is obvious, less so for outdoor container gardens. A
great option for a windowsill is a single tray that runs the width of the window, which
allows you to crowd plants closer together than individual saucers permit. A saucer
reduces your watering chores by holding water (and liquid fertilizer) long enough for
plants to absorb it. On the other hand, few plants besides watercress tolerate sitting in
water for more than a couple hours. During rainy spells you must dump out the water in
outdoor trays to keep plants from rotting.
For really large containers, trays are impractical. Fortunately, since these hold more
soil and therefore more water, a tray is less important. Unless you're gardening on
a wooden deck, large containers can sit right on the paving. Self-watering containers
don't need a tray; these are now available in all sizes. If you want the option of moving
large containers, place them on a wheeled caddy. These handy items are either wood or
metal and are available at garden centers.
Containers on a wooden deck can cause boards to rot. Placing pots on trays or sau-
cers helps prevent this, especially if elevated on a couple of narrow scraps of wood to
allow the boards underneath to dry. Even better are the terra-cotta pot “feet” sold at
many garden suppliers. These do great job of preventing rot for pots with or without a
tray. Or look for a planter with built-in feet.
Getting the Light Right
Vegetables require sun, or its equivalent in light. Six to eight hours of direct sun is the
most a plant needs for fruit production (cucumbers, eggplants, hot peppers). Foliage ve-
getables and root crops produce with only four hours of sun. Some foliage vegetables
settle for a bright north or east window; some herbs, such as watercress, grow well with
surprisingly low light levels.
If your problem is not enough sun, get creative. On a terrace or rooftop, paint the
wall behind the plant white to get more mileage out of existing sun. Mulch with alu-
minum foil; this helps preserve moisture and repel aphids while increasing the amount
of light. Try fashioning a sun reflector: Staple foil on a frame of a suitable size, stand it
to face the sun, and reflect it onto the plant. To get maximum benefit from this device,
move it as the sun moves. Remember to take it away if the weather turns very hot.