THE CHINESE BEANS - Growing Chinese Vegetables in Your Own Backyard - page 66

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The plant forms a 2-foot-high bush, something like green beans. The young pods —
shorter than green beans — are borne in profusion. When the pods are mature, shelling
them reveals the shiny, red, round beans. If you prefer, you can dry the beans in the
pods, without shelling, and then shell as wanted. This takes up more storage space, so I
find it impractical.
How to Grow
Getting started. Plant the same time as green beans, about two weeks after the last frost
date when the ground has warmed up. You can plant successive crops, just as with green
beans, by sowing a new row each week. Adzukis grow best with cool nights, but they're
fairly resilient. They thrive in slightly acidic soil (as do most vegetables except peas
and beets). It's not worth worrying a lot about this unless you're going for the highest
possible yield.
Planting. Sow seeds ½ to 1 inch deep in rich, loamy soil. Sow 2 to 3 inches apart in
rows 18 to 30 inches apart; there is no need to thin.
Growing needs. Keep the watering consistent and ample. Fertilize after seedlings are
about 4 to 5 inches high and again when flowers start to form pods.
How to Harvest
For green beans. To harvest as green beans, pick when the beans are just beginning to
show in the pod. Pick every five or six days or they'll get away from you. If you do
miss some and they start to ripen, let them do so, and sow another row for fresh eating.
For dried beans. Allow adzuki beans to mature fully (about 120 days: check your seed
catalog or packet for specific advice) to harvest for dried beans. Wait to harvest until
pods turn dry and brown and the seeds rattle inside. Once dried, keep beans in a tightly
covered jar and they'll last indefinitely.
Varieties
Only one variety is widely available. You may find adzukis listed under “sprouting
beans” in seed catalogs. Once you have grown them successfully you may want to save
some of your own seeds for next year's crop.