Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
tially doubled in the last ten years, as producers
are replacing Lambrusco Marani (which deliv-
ers less obviously creamy, full-bodied wines)
with it. According to Zulini, this
Lambrusco
is
also common in Puglia (though I'm there at
least three or four times a year almost every
year and have never heard anybody mention it)
and there are reportedly roughly one hundred
hectares planted in Argentina. Though Lam-
brusco Maestri was supposedly known in the
nineteenth century, documentation on it is
available only from the twentieth century. In
2005, Boccacci, Torello Marinoni, Gambino,
Botta, and Schneider, studied its possible par-
entage relationships via molecular analysis and
described a parent-offspring relationship
between it and Fortana. This
Lambrusco
is
characterized by a slightly more compact and
smaller bunch, though the physical appearance
depends on which clone or biotype is being
examined. Clones available include CAB 6,
CAB 16, and VCR 1, the last of which became
available in 1995 and offers the largest produc-
tion and usually the higher quality. This
Lam-
brusco
variety is characterized by bunches with
a very obvious, opulent wing off to the side;
Lambrusco Viadanese, for example, rarely has a
wing. Generally speaking, Lambrusco Maestri
is a very copious, dependable producer and rip-
ens slightly earlier than other Lambrusco vari-
eties
.
Due to its excessive vigor, excessively fer-
tile soils are best avoided; short pruning is
preferable.
While the
Lambrusco
varieties planted out-
side Italy are often not characterized fully, so
that one is left wondering which type was
planted, Lambrusco Maestri is one
Lambrusco
that seems to travel well. There are documented
plantings of it in Argentina (Mendoza, San
Juan) and Australia (Heathcote, Adelaide Hills).
has an amazingly fruity, almost bubblegum-
like quality to its aromas and fl avors of dark
plums, ripe black cherry, milk chocolate, and
candied violets. It's effusively soft and creamy,
but with a very fresh grapey quality. It is allowed
in many DOC blends, such as Colli di Parma,
Colli di Scandiano e Canossa, Emilia (or
dell'Emilia), Lambrusco Mantovano, and Reg-
giano. IGT blends are numerous, and include
Campania, delle Venezie, Forlì, Puglia, Rubi-
cone, Salento, and Tarantino.
Outside Italy, try the very good Australian
version by Chalmers, simply labeled Lam-
brusco but made with 100 percent Lambrusco
Maestri. The 2012 is an excellent wine, atypi-
cally made by the traditional Champagne
method of a secondary fermentation in the bot-
tle; you'll love the heady vanilla, cinnamon, and
strawberry aromas and fl avors that seem to
jump out of the glass. Parish Hill in the
Adelaide Hills, also makes an outstanding lam-
brusco (simply labeled Lambrusco Frizzante)
from this variety. From Argentina, try the ver-
sions by Tittarelli and the excellent one by Don
Bosco.
wines to try:
Cantine Ceci*** (Nero di Lam-
brusco Otello, guaranteed to change your mind
about lambrusco forever and turn you into a
believer), Dall'Asta*** (Mefi stofele), Carra di
Casatico** (Torcularia), and Monte delle
Vigne** (Selezione Lambrusco dell'Emilia).
Lambrusco Marani
where it's found:
Emilia-Romagna.
national
registry code number:
118.
color:
red.
Lambrusco Marani is (along with Gras-
parossa) a rare
Lambrusco
grown in hillside
vineyards, though it is most often found on fl at-
lands, where it proves resistant to relatively
damp soils (it likes clay) but susceptible to win-
ter cold. It prefers low-density cultivation sys-
tems with short pruning; yields are abundant
and regular.
Little documentation exists of this variety's
presence as recently as the twentieth century. It
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Lambrusco Maestri gives the fruitiest, creami-
est, and most immediately appealing, if not the
deepest and most complex,
Lambrusco
wines of
all. When well made, the wine has extremely
intense purple tones to its deep ruby hue and
