Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Tuscan microclimate than its more famous
“taste-alike,” and initial vinifi cation results
have been more than encouraging. In 1981, the
Dipartmento di Ortofl orifruttocoltura of the
University of Florence established, in conjunc-
tion with other Tuscan institutions, a collection
of 229 local and native grape varieties in spe-
cialized farms all over the region. Tuscany's
best known experimental vineyard was set up
in 1984 at the San Felice estate in Chianti (near
Castelnuovo Berardenga). Two ancient varieties
of the province of Siena, Gorgottesco and Ten-
erone, have been recently brought back from
oblivion: well-described in ancient texts, and
recently identifi ed in old vineyards by research-
ers from the University of Siena, they were
replanted in experimental vineyards in 2012.
We can hope to see pure versions of wines
made from these varieties in the not-too-distant
future, though for right now knowledge about
these two varieties is very thin.
Canaiolo Nero is now known to be in almost all
cases Colorino del Valdarno. The main white
grape is Grechetto, most often blended with
other local natives such as Drupeggio (which is
in reality Canaiolo Bianco), Verdello, and Pro-
canico to make the famous wine of Orvieto and
many deservedly less famous other blends.
Unfortunately, this is one region where the lack
of a quality winemaking history (Tuscany has
always hovered over Umbria like a big brother)
has allowed the unrestricted proliferation of
international varieties. Consequently, Umbria
is awash in a sea of mainly uninteresting
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines that
can't compete, in price or quality, with better
examples from the rest of the world. Mercifully,
the agriculture faculty at the University of
Perugia has taken to studying the old local
varieties.
Lazio
Shoddy winemaking and low-quality (but
heavy-yielding) varieties such as Trebbiano
Toscano and Malvasia Bianca di Candia have
ruined the image of Lazio's wines and once-
famous names like Frascati and Marino have
deservedly bitten the dust. Cannellino, the
sweet wine of Frascati, is also hampered by
many truly lousy wines carrying its once-glori-
ous name. Mercifully, over the last decade pro-
ducers and legislators have realized that the
future lies with high-quality natives such as
Malvasia del Lazio (also called Malvasia Punti-
nata) and Bellone, and pure bottlings are on the
increase. One caveat might be that some of the
Malvasia del Lazio wines that sprang up almost
overnight at the beginning of the twenty-fi rst
century really don't remind me of the variety at
all. Among other natives, Moscato di Terracina
is very similar to Moscato Bianco, but differs
enough genetically to be considered a separate
variety. Lazio's most important native red grape
is Cesanese, of which there are two different
varieties, Cesanese Comune and Cesanese
d'Affi le. The agriculture departments at the
University of Viterbo, the enology school at Vel-
Marche
The Marche's two best-known native varieties
are Verdicchio and Sangiovese. The former can
give what are arguably Italy's best white wines,
while the latter is mainly used to make red
blends such as Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero,
in wines where Montepulciano also plays an
important role. However, two white varieties
(both found in Abruzzo as well) are being
increasingly talked about, and are causing peo-
ple to look toward Marche with hope: Pecorino
and Passerina. Cococciola is another up-and-
comer, and Maceratino has its fans. Lacrima
and Vernaccia Nera are used to produce two
aromatic red wines, made in both dry and sweet
versions that are excellent.
Umbria
Umbria's most famous native red grape is
Sagrantino (Sagrantino di Montefalco is proba-
bly Italy's most tannic red wine) but there are
large plantings of Sangiovese too and what was
once believed to be a unique strain of Umbrian
