Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
wines to try:
In Lombardy, Fortesi** is mak-
ing experimental batches of moradella wine on
sale at the estate. If you're in the area, stop by,
since the wine is not yet available elsewhere.
barrels,” respectively). Though it may be similar
to some of the Passerina varieties found all over
central Italy, it is still not completely clear
whether it is the same grape as Pagadebit. Cer-
tainly, the Pezzi family of the Fattoria Paradiso
in Emilia-Romagna thinks the two are different.
However, most experts I have talked to over the
years believe it is used to make the wine called
pagadebit, which has also always been made
with Bombino Bianco as well as Mostosa, due to
the confusion surrounding the varieties (appar-
ently nurseries, in good faith, sent Bombino
Bianco to growers looking to plant Mostosa/
Pagadebit). Recently researchers have shown
that Mostosa has a parent-offspring relationship
with Garganega, thereby making it a half-sibling
or grandparent of Albana, Cataratto Bianco,
Dorona, Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Marzemina
Bianca, Montonico Bianco, Susumaniello, and
Trebbiano Toscano (Crespan, Calò, Giannetto,
Sparacio, Storchi, Costacurta, et al. 2008). At
our present state of knowledge, we can say that
Mostosa is Empibotte, but not Bombino Bianco.
It is also likely to be Pagadebit.
Some fi gures show that Mostosa is also
grown in Puglia, Marche, and Abruzzo, but
I think this results from confusing Mostosa
with Bombino Bianco; that larger distribution
should be attributed to Bombino Bianco.
Over my years of speaking to local growers and
producers, the general consensus is that,
though Mostosa was common once, today
there isn't much anywhere except in the vine-
yards of Emilia-Romagna, and even there it has
been supplanted by plantings of Bombino
Bianco.
The bunch is large, pyramidal or conical,
compact, and winged. The berry is large too,
round, thin skinned, and yellow-green. Harvest
is in late September or early October. It is sensi-
tive to strong winds and to peronospora.
Morone
where it's found:
Tu sc a ny.
national regis-
try code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
Morone is also known as Moro; there exist
three different biotypes, all grown in the Luni-
giana area of Tuscany, near the city of Massa-
Carrara, on the border with Liguria. The stan-
dard biotype has a medium to medium-large
bunch with medium-sized, blue-black, round
berries that have a strongly colored pulp. It is
usually harvested in mid- to late September.
This is one cultivar people could look at for
future monovarietal bottlings.
Mostarino
where it's found:
Emilia-Romagna.
national
registry code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
Called so because it produces copious quan-
tities of must (
mosto
), Mostarino is a variety
grown mainly around Piacenza. It has a
medium-sized, conical, and compact bunch.
The berry is medium-large, round, and blue-
black with plenty of juice, but I haven't tried any
monovarietal wines.
Mostosa
where it's found:
Emilia-Romagna.
national
registry code number:
157.
color:
white.
This grape lives in what is perhaps Italy's
single most confusing grape variety situation,
since it has always been mixed up with Bombino
Bianco, a distinct variety, among others. Only
described at the beginning of the twentieth cen-
tury by Cavazza, Mostosa's name hints at copi-
ous must
(mosto)
production. In fact, as it pro-
duces well, it is also known as Scacciadebiti and
Empibotte (“get rid of your debts” and “fi ll the
Negrat
where it's found:
Friuli Venezia Giulia.
national registry code number:
not regis-
tered.
color:
red.
