Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Mazzese
Merla
where it's found:
Tu sc a ny.
national regis-
try code number:
145.
color:
red.
Its existence documented as far back as
1679, Mazzese is one of Tuscany's oldest grape
varieties, probably native to the areas around
Pisa and Grosseto, where it was known as
Vajano; its other names include Rinaldesca
and Orzese. It also grows sporadically in old
vineyard plots in Sardinia. Recent studies
imply that there may be two different biotypes,
so much so that the Mazzese of Pisa is also
called Mazzese di Parlascio. There are many
old vines around Grosseto (the warmer climate
of southern Maremma apparently suits this
variety better), Pisa, and even in Sardinia. The
bunch is large, long, and sparse, with one or
two wings. The berries are medium-small,
slightly oval, thick skinned, and pink. Early
ripening, it's usually picked a month ahead of
Sangiovese, in the fi rst week of September.
Mazzese is a high-acid variety, and pure Mazz-
ese wines (which I have not yet tasted) have an
intense, sour-cherry smell. For this reason,
some believe Mazzese to be Ciliegiolo, or a bio-
type of it.
See
CANAIOLO
NERO
, chapter 4.
Merlina
where it's found:
Lombardy.
national reg-
istry code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
First described in the eighteenth century in
Valtellina, the northern alpine area of Lom-
bardy where it is still (and only) found today,
Merlina has always been appreciated for its
strong dark wines. Traditionally it was blended
with Chiavennasca (the local name for Nebbi-
olo) which is notoriously light colored. It was
also often air-dried, as is the tradition in Valtel-
lina, home of the famous Sfursat wine. The
bunch is medium to medium-small, cylindrical
or pyramidal, with two wings usually. The
berry is round and medium-large, blue-black,
and ripens in early October. Your best bet is to
visit farmers in the areas of Tirano and Gro-
sotto and taste their homemade wines: your
taste buds will be greeted by a thick dark wine
that is amazingly fresh and quite tannic, with
blueberry and dark plum fl avors.
Minnella Bianca
Melara
where it's found:
Sicily.
national registry
code number:
147.
color:
white.
Described by Sestini in 1760, Minnella
Bianca is now a rare variety grown almost
exclusively on the slopes of the Etna volcano
and very sporadically in the province of Enna.
Its name derives from the Sicilian word for
female breast
(minna),
as this variety's berries
have a shape recalling that anatomic part. It is
not particularly resistant, neither to spring
frosts nor to common vine pests. A low-acid
variety, it was historically always used as a
blending agent with which to reduce the strong
acidity and tannins of most Etnean reds. Salvo
Foti believes that due to its low acidity and ten-
dency to oxidize easily it really isn't all that
interesting to make wines with it on its own,
where it's found:
Emilia-Romagna.
national
registry code number:
399.
color:
white.
Melara is also known as Merlara, as small
blackbirds (
merli
) are fond of the sweet, ripe
berries. It has always been grown in the coun-
tryside around Piacenza. The bunch is medium
and compact, a truncated pyramid in shape,
with large, round or almost oval berries, with a
thick yellow-green skins. It accumulates sugar
easily and is therefore picked early, usually by
the last week of August. Due to its very thick
skin, historically it has been used most often
for the production of sweet wines, such as the
DOC Colli Piacentini Vin Santo di Vigoleno,
one of the best—and least-known—sweet
wines of the country.
