Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
writing that it was a grape with which to make
wine best used for distillation purposes. In more
modern times, Cappucci (1954) was the fi rst to
describe the variety in depth, praising it for its
rusticity, productivity, and resistance to disease.
The vine is vigorous, with large cylindrical-
conical, sparse bunches. The berries are
medium-large and spherical, grey-green in
color. It ripens late and is usually harvested well
into October, when the berries can take on a
decidedly golden tinge. The wine is simple,
easygoing with good body and alcoholic
strength; for this reason it was historically used
to beef up weaker wines in blends. It is still
found sporadically in old vineyards around
Bologna and Ravenna, perhaps Forlì and
Faenza.
Believed to be typical of the Valle d'Itria,
Maresco used to be called Maruggio, the name
of the town in the epicenter of the variety's pro-
duction zone. As place names are no longer
allowed to name grapes in Italy, this variety's
name has been changed to Maresco. It's a little-
studied variety that ripens in September and is
characterized by medium-strong vigor and
good productivity of light white wines blessed
with very good acidity. For this reason, the vari-
ety has been looked at as a source of good spar-
kling wines.
wines to try: The only monovarietal maresco
I know of is made by Donato Angiuli** (Mac-
cone), who also produces a good Primitivo di
Gioia. This sparkling wine sits six months on
the lees and offers aromas and fl avors of green
apple, citrus, and pear.
Marchione
where it's found: Puglia. national registry
code number: 453. color: white.
Also known as Maricchione, Marchione is a
high-quality grape characterized by good total
acidity levels and the capacity to give highly
perfumed, almost aromatic wines. Further-
more, it also produces copiously and reliably; its
Achilles's heel is that it is exquisitely sensitive
to most common vine diseases, explaining why
it gradually disappeared from vineyards. Char-
acterized by a large, loosely packed bunch and
large berries of pinkish hue when fully ripe, it's
harvested in September and may have a future
for the production of sparkling wines. It is typi-
cal of the Valle d'Itria, where it was always
grown along with Verdeca and Bianco
d'Alessano.
Marzabino
where it's found: Emilia-Romagna. national
registry code number: not registered. color:
red.
Though their names are similar, Marzabino
has nothing in common with Marzemino. De
Bosis fi rst described it in 1876 and considered it
identical to varieties then known as Marzanino
di Ravenna and Balsamina di Forlì. In 1896 Di
Rovasenda wrote that Marzabino was identical
to the Refosco s that at that time were common
in the northern part of Italy's Adriatic coast. It
gives a very perfumed and intensely colored
wine, hence it used to be blended with
Sangiovese.
wines to try: Currently the only wine I know
made with this variety is by Santoro*: very
pleasant, fresh and delicately aromatic, the
wine and the grape deserve to be better known.
Marzemina Nera
where it's found: Veneto. national regis-
try code number: not registered. color: red.
The Marzemina Nera I describe here is just
one of many grape varieties called Marzemina
Nera in Veneto; it is not yet clear if the others
are biotypes or distinct varieties. More than one
Marzemina Nera and even more Marzemina -
Maresco
where it's found: Puglia. national registry
code number: not registered. color: white.
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