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Damascus; some believe the grape may have
been imported to Sicilian shores during the
Arab domination of the island. However, the
fi rst to mention Damaschino was Mendola in
1884. Damaschino was also a much appreci-
ated table grape, and a favorite of wine produc-
ers looking to make light white wines. For this
reason, Damaschino knew an intense replant-
ing phase in the post-phylloxeric period. Unfor-
tunately, though it is still grown in the prov-
inces of Trapani (where it's used to make
Marsala) and Agrigento, Damaschino has since
fallen out of favor because of sensitivity to dis-
eases (it's not particularly resistant to grey rot
or peronospora) compared to other locals such
as the Cataratto s. The DF 1 is the only clone
available to date. A very vigorous vine, with a
large, pyramidal, winged grape bunch, it has
medium-large, round berries that tend to be
pinkish rather than yellow-green when exposed
to strong sunlight. The pure damaschino wines
I have had (the easiest to fi nd are from the DOC
Delia Nivolelli) have all been very light and
crisp, with delicate white-fl ower and lemony
aromas and fl avors. Based on my limited expe-
rience, I think there is potential for damas-
chino, as some wines are noteworthy; unfortu-
nately there are far too many less interesting
ones made. I don't believe it can age much
beyond a year, so it's best to consume it young.
Unfortunately, there is a wine sold under the
commercial name “damaschino,” but it is
apparently not made with the Damaschino
grape.
compound due to a large wing, very compact
and stocky. The berries are small and round-
oval, thick skinned, and dark blue. Not too vig-
orous and botrytis sensitive, it ripens in early
September. Microvinifications have shown
neutral wines that are tannic and quite saline. I
doubt that Denela will ever be more than a
blending grape, possibly appreciated for its tan-
nic clout.
Durasa
where it's found: Piedmont. national reg-
istry code number: 76. color: red.
There are apparently Durasa vines in almost
every viticultural zone of Piedmont, but in
almost thirty years of visiting that region's vine-
yards I don't remember a single producer even
mentioning Durasa grapevines. Durasa is
mainly found in the Canavese area (near
Turin), as well in the hills near Novara, around
Chieri and Asti. The Canavese area is an impor-
tant one for native grapes, since throughout
history this remote region was diffi cult to
reach; consequently, not much genetic contam-
ination of local grapes occurred. Also, farmers
continued to grow those varieties that had
always been highly thought of locally, rather
than turning to more popular varieties. The
cluster is sparse, medium or medium-small in
size, conical, sometimes truncated and short,
with a large wing. The berry is medium-sized,
spherical, with a thick, blue-black skin. An
excellent table grape, it is very resistant to rot
and other diseases, while the wine produced
can be a real revelation; medium bodied,
smooth, dark-red, and fruity, though low in pH.
Denela
where it's found: Veneto. national regis-
try code number: not registered. color: red.
Denela was fi rst described in 1980, and
historical information on this Veronese native
is lacking (Canceller, Costacurta, Angelini,
Segattini, and Cabrusina 1980). Sporadic vines
have been found in the Valle di Montorio and
in the Val Squaranto in the province of
Verona. The bunch is medium-sized, almost
Fenile
where it's found: Campania. national reg-
istry code number: 338. color: white.
A white grape that is grown only along the
Amalfi coast, Fenile's name is due to the straw-
yellow color of its berries, which recalls hay.
Fenile is found mainly in the areas of Furore,
Positano, and Amalfi , where it is used to make
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