Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Coglionara
Costacurta (2001), there appear to be at least
three different biotypes: Rustico, Gentile, and
Bianco (the last of these better known as San
Colombano). Grapes are harvested in the fi rst
part of October, and the resulting wines are
light colored, and medium-bodied, with good to
high alcohol levels due to the sugar-rich ber-
ries, and honeyed and f loral aromas and
fl avors.
where it's found:
Campania.
national reg-
istry code number:
not registered.
color:
white.
Typical of the island of Ischia, where it is
still common, Coglionara also grows on the
nearby island of Ventotene. It was first
described by D'Ascia (1867) and then by Froio
(1878) and Nesbitt (1884), who referred to it as
Coglionara Grossa. The bunch is medium-
sized and cylindrical while the berries are
medium-sized and round. It is used to make
the DOC Ischia Bianco blend and other local
white wines. Compared to other more famous
and more frequently planted island varieties
such as Biancolella and Forastera, it loses out by
a nose, as this is an aromatically challenged
grape. However, it has an interesting tactile
presence and adds body and savor to the blends
it is part of. Coglionara is less susceptible to
oidium than are other little-known varieties of
Ischia such as Sanlunardo and Arilla, and so
may have a future in monovarietal wines. In
2013, I began a project with Giancarlo Carriero,
owner of Ischia's Albergo Regina Isabella in
Lacco Ameno, aimed at having a local winery
make a monovarietal bottling of Coglionara as
well as other monovarietal wines from local,
almost abandoned grapes. Only time will tell if
Coglionara will sing its tune solo or is forever
doomed to be part of a chorus.
wines to try:
Podere Poggiarellini** by Bruno
Meicci in Terricciola.
Corbina
where it's found:
Veneto.
national regis-
try code number:
406.
color:
red.
This recently rediscovered variety is generat-
ing excitement based on preliminary vinifi ca-
tions. In fact, of all the grapes listed in this chap-
ter, this may turn out to be the one with the
brightest future. Corbina, once also called Cro-
vino (not to be confused with the Ligurian vari-
ety), appears to always have been highly thought
of by both producers and experts. Different
from the similar-sounding Corvina, the famous
cultivar used to make Valpolicella and Ama-
rone, Corbina belongs to the large family of
Cor-
bina
grapes, which once included Corbinella
(now suspected to be just a virus-affected form
of Corbina), Corbinone, Corvara, and Crovaja.
How many of these were truly different varieties
rather than synonyms or biotypes is not known.
The list was actually once much longer:
there were nine
Corbina
varieties listed in the
1868
Bollettino Ampelografico del Comizio
Agrario di Vicenza
(Corbina, Corbina Dolce or
Marzemina di Spagna, Corbina della Madonna,
Corbinella or Pelosa or Pelosetta, Corbinella di
Camino, Corbinella Padovana, Corbinella Pic-
cola, Corbinona, and Corbinone di Timonchio).
The fourth volume of the
Bollettino Ampelo-
grafi co
(1884-87) names which grape varieties
were most suited to each viticultural area of
Veneto; Corbina was thought most appropriate
for Vicenza and Padova, Corbinella and
Corbinone were thought to perform best
Colombana Nera
where it's found:
Tu sc a ny.
national regis-
try code number:
66.
color:
red.
Colombana Nera is a rare grape limited to
vineyards around the towns of Livorno, Lucca,
Massa Carrara, Pisa, and Pistoia, and especially
near the border with Liguria; its name derives
from the monastery of San Colombano in Bob-
bio. Occasionally called Besgano or Besgnano,
it's also grown near Piacenza and in the Oltrepò
Pavese. It doubles as an excellent table grape,
thanks to large bunches and medium-large,
oval berries. According to Calò, Scienza, and
