Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
by Foëx (1909), nor to Mourvèdre. No clones
are available yet. Apparently, its name derives
from Carcaghjolu Nero (“the black one that
gives lots of grapes,” in the Corsican dialect).
Some experts fi nd it bears a very strong pheno-
typic resemblance to the Vermentino Nero of
Liguria and Tuscany. It has also been suggested
that Caricagiola is identical to Spain's Parraleta,
since DNA profi ling studies have suggested
genetic identity between the latter and Tinta
Caiada, which is believed to be identical to Cor-
sica's Carcajolo Nero. However, until clearer,
and more defi nitive evidence arrives, I will con-
tinue to list the variety separately as does Italy's
National Registry.
Caricagiola's bunch is medium-sized, coni-
cal or cylindrical, with one or two wings, usu-
ally not compact. Grapes are medium-sized,
round-oval, blue-black, and thick skinned. It
ripens fully between the end of September and
the beginning of October. I have tasted carica-
giola made by local growers as well as the trial
effort kindly sent me from the Convisar consor-
tium; the wine is deeply colored, with very
grapey, black- and red-berry aromas, rustic tan-
nins, and mouth-searing acidity despite what
you'll read elsewhere. It has promise, if not as a
monovarietal wine then as part of blends,
where its high acidity will add a measure of
lightness to some heavy rich and alcoholic Sar-
dinian reds. I liked what I've tasted so far, and
as it's very different from carignanos or can-
nonaus (it's usually lighter, fruitier, and
fresher), there may be a place for it among the
island's vinous offerings.
to many French varieties (Vouillamoz, Schnei-
der, and Grando 2006). Cascarolo's bunch is
medium-large, long, and sparse. The name
refers to berry shot (
cascola
from
cascano,
in
reference to the fl owers dropping).
Castagnara
where it's found:
Campania.
national reg-
istry code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
Castagnara is found today mainly in the
northern part of the Sorrento coast, especially
on the slopes of the Lattari mountains around
the towns of Casola, Gragnano, Lettere, and
Sant'Antonio Abate. In the nineteenth cen-
tury it was common around Naples and even
on the slopes of Vesuvius. Today, the wine you
are most likely to taste Castagnara in is the
DOC Penisola Sorrentina, especially those
from Lettere and Gragnano, but just how
much Castagnara is included is anybody's
guess. Some believe that Castagnara is identi-
cal to Sannese and Santamaria, but the three
are reportedly phenotypically very different so
I wonder. DNA analysis by the University of
Portici has not shown any genetic ties to other
known Campanian varieties thus far. Farmers
have always loved this variety, as it's a very
heavy producer. The bunches are medium
sized, cylindrical, and winged, while grapes
are small, spherical, and intensely blue-black.
Harvest occurs in early October. The wine is
weak in alcohol, and doesn't seem to have any
redeeming features.
Cascarolo
Castiglione
where it's found:
Piedmont.
national reg-
istry code number:
not registered.
color:
white.
Cascarolo is cultivated only sporadically in
the provinces of Asti and Turin, but has been
well known since the 1600s (Croce 1606). It
was once also popular as a table grape, but it
does not appear that anyone is using it to make
a monovarietal wine today. It is closely related
where it's found:
Calabria.
national regis-
try code number:
56.
color:
red.
Grown in the provinces of Reggio Calabria
and Cosenza, Castiglione has a medium-sized,
pyramidal, winged, and sparse bunch, with
large, oval, blue-black grapes; it is disease resis-
tant. Unfortunately in Calabria they also use
the name Castiglione for Magliocco Dolce
and Nerello Mascalese, leading to confusion in
