Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
tle-known local called Paddiu. Most likely a true
native of Sardinia, it's a variety with different
names depending on which part of the island it
is grown: Caddu (Bosa), Caddiu Neddu
(Oristano), and Niedda Perda Sarda (Terralba).
Very vigorous but not productive, it concentrates
its energy into growing foliage. The bunch is
medium-large (four hundred grams), cylindri-
cal-pyramidal, and fairly compact. The grapes
are medium-small and spherical, with a thick,
crunchy skin, blue-black in hue; it ripens in late
September or early October. I have yet to taste a
pure Caddiu wine, but of course, I'd like to.
thought he had planted Sangiovese but a part of
the vines was so different from the latter variety
that studies were undertaken and showed a
unique isoenzymatic pattern and SSR profi le
on ten microsatellite loci. The wine is also
called calbanesco and is made by only one
estate. It tastes and smells like a very good san-
giovese, or perhaps like a richer Brunello.
wines to try:
La Calbane**.
Campolongo
where it's found:
Lazio.
national registry
code number:
417.
color:
white.
In the 1881 ampelographic bulletin drawn
up by the Ministry of Agriculture, Industry and
Commerce, Campolongo was considered a
high-quality wine grape. Today its diffusion is
miniscule, limited to the Valle del Comino and
the Valle del Liri in southeastern Lazio, near
the bustling city of Frosinone. The bunch is
medium-sized, cylindrical, often winged, and
fairly compact, with what to me look like very
large berries (though ampelographic descrip-
tions refer to them as medium-sized), oval and
yellow-golden. Microvinifi cations reveal a very
intense nose of fl owers, apple, and citrus fruit
complicated by richer notes of dried apricot. On
the palate it shows balanced but high acids and
considerable structure. Biochemical analysis
has revealed significant concentrations of
phenylethanol in the wine, which smells of
roses. A promising variety.
Calabrese di Montenuovo
where it's found:
Sicily.
national registry
code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
An important study addressing the genetic
relationships between Campanian cultivars
describes a number of different local
Calabrese
varieties (Costantini, Monaco, Vouillamoz, For-
lani, and Grando 2005), of which Calabrese di
Montenuovo became the most famous when, in
2007, Vouillamoz et al. concluded it was one of
Sangiovese's parents, in a natural cross with
Ciliegiolo (Vouillamoz, Monaco, Costantini,
Stefanini, Scienza, and Grando 2007). Unfor-
tunately this interpretation has since been con-
tradicted by another couple of fi ne studies in
which Ciliegiolo was determined to be an off-
spring of Sangiovese (Di Vecchi Staraz, Bandi-
nelli, Boselli, This, Boursiquot, Laucou, et al.
2007; Cipriani, Spadotto, Jurman, Di Gaspero,
Crespan, Meneghetti, et al. 2010). Clearly,
more research on the matter is required.
Canaiolo Bianco
where it's found:
Tu sc a ny.
national regis-
try code number:
48.
color:
white.
Also commonly known as Drupeggio,
Canaiolo Bianco is typical of Tuscany, where it
was documented in 1817 by Gallesio. It appears
also to have been grown in the region of Molise,
around the town of Campobasso, where it was
called Caciumo or Cacinello, and in Marche
near Ascoli Piceno, where it was called Canina
or Uva dei Cani (confusingly so, since there are
Calbanesco
where it's found:
Emilia-Romagna.
national
registry code number:
not registered.
color:
white.
Calbanesco is a unique variety that was dis-
covered in the vineyards of the Le Calbane
estate in Emilia-Romagna, at Ricò di Meldola,
in the valley of the Ridente; owner Cesare Raggi
