Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
given that Biancone is a name commonly used
to describe other varieties in Italy. Furthermore,
it's used there to make dessert wines, which is
not the case in Italy. It's reportedly grown in
South Australia by Angoves Winery, and in Vic-
toria by Lake Moodemere Vineyards, and appar-
ently results are more than satisfying.
vigor but very poor resistance to grey rot (not
surprising, given the compact bunch). I have
tasted microvinifi cations and the wine has a
strong citrus note, with hints of sweet spices
and white fl owers. It struck me as a potentially
interesting, nonaromatic variety, but I can't see
farmers lining up to plant it, given its botrytis
sensitivity.
Bian Ver
where it's found:
Piedmont.
national reg-
istry code number:
not registered.
color:
white.
Bian Ver, also known as Verdesse in France,
is also found in the Valais of Switzerland. In
Piedmont it is now rare, with sporadic vines
located in the Alta Valsusa, in the Val Chisone
(Pomaretto and Perosa Argentina) and in the
Pinerolese; it's just as rare in France, which
some believe it is native to (specifi cally, the
Vallée de Grésivaudan in Isère). It is character-
ized by a small, cylindrical bunch, with one or
two small wings, and medium-small berries.
However, the grape has noteworthy winemak-
ing potential according to Piedmontese pro-
ducers who still own vines, accumulating sug-
ars easily while maintaining very high acidity
levels and expressing ripe tropical fruit aromas
and fl avors in the fi nished wines. I hope it
makes a comeback quickly, and there are some
encouraging signs. My glass is ready and
waiting.
Blanchet
where it's found:
Piedmont.
national reg-
istry code number:
not registered.
color:
white.
One of the many “whitey” or
Bianchetto
vari-
eties of Italy, Blanchet is characterized by early
ripening and good sugar accumulation, and by
medium-sized, pyramidal bunches and
medium-sized, round berries. As it is low in
acids, it has historically been blended with
another local but high-acid native, Preveiral, to
make the wines typical of the Valli Chisone and
Germanasca in the Pinerolese, in Turin. The
wines are simple and easygoing, ideal as aperitifs
or paired with simply prepared fi sh and vegetable
dishes.
The French variety Roussette d'Ayze grown
in the Haute-Savoie region is supposedly syn-
onymous to Italy's Blanchet. Which country
can lay claim to the grape as their own is still a
matter of some conjecture.
Bonamico
where it's found:
Tu sc a ny.
national regis-
try code number:
34.
color:
red.
Originally from the Pisa area in Tuscany,
Bonamico was first documented by Di
Rovasenda in 1877, and is also known as Gia-
comino or Uva di Palaia. However, viticultural-
ist Stefano Dini believes that Giacomino and
Bonamico are two distinct varieties: “Bonami-
co's leaf has a downy underside, making it
resemble Canaiolo Nero, while Giacomino's is
hairless—that's a big difference in ampelo-
graphic circles.” Bonamico was always a favor-
ite with farmers, as it fl owers late (and hence
Bigolona
where it's found:
Veneto.
national registry
code number:
not registered.
color:
white.
A very rare variety grown especially around
Verona (in the Valpolicella and the Val Illasi),
Bigolona is also known as Bigolara, Sampagna,
and Smarzirola. It has always been used with
other local varieties to make an air-dried sweet
wine. The grape cluster is cylindrical, long,
compact, and large (432 grams), with round but
not uniform berries of golden-yellow hue. It rip-
ens by September and is characterized by high
