Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
the Oltrepò area of Lombardy according to Di
Rovasenda (1877) and Molon (1906). Once
common, it is now reduced to only a few rows of
vines in scattered vineyards of Piedmont,
mainly in the countryside around Ovada and
Acqui Terme (Cremolino, Morsasco, Strevi). To
make a complicated subject matter even more
diffi cult, in these regions it is unfortunately
also called Carica L'asino, of which there are
countless similarly named grapes in Italy, one
of which is synonymous with Barbassese.
Different research teams have shown that
Barbera Bianca is unrelated to the more famous
red-berried Barbera variety (Sefc, Lefort,
Grando, Scott, Steinkellner, and Thomas 2000;
Schneider and Mattivi 2006). Barbera Bianca's
name derives from its physical resemblance to
Barbera and its wine can be just as acidic as
that made with its red namesake, but the simi-
larities end there. In fact, both Demaria and
Leardi (1855) and Di Rovasenda (1877) found
that the two varieties shared slightly similar
oval berries and little else. Barbera Bianca has a
thick-skinned elliptical berry, ripens neither
early nor late, and is very resistant to spring
frosts and most diseases. The bunch is cylindri-
cal-conical and medium in size. The wine made
from it is apparently fresh and easygoing, not
very alcoholic, and delicately perfumed with
white-fl ower aromas. Barbera Bianca is always
blended into a generic white wine with other
local grape varieties such as Timorasso,
Favorita, and even Moscato Bianco (for example
in the Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC).
try, though Costantini, Monaco, Vouillamoz,
Forlani, and Grando (2005) found it to be a
genetically distinct variety possibly related to
Catalanesca, Casavecchia, and Summariello.
The Summariello in this study was considered
synonymous to Uva di Troia (which Som-
marello has long been a synonym of), however,
many other Somarello-named varieties exist in
Italy; one, also from Puglia, has now been offi -
cially recognized as Somarello Rosso in the
National Registry (number 459). In any case, I
think it would be best if Barbera del Sannio's
name were changed, since the Barbera tag only
adds to confusion. As this is a completely differ-
ent variety and wine, I think a distinct name
might help not just producers, but also the
wine-loving public.
The variety has conical-pyramidal bunches
and slightly fl attened round berries. Growers
describe it as not too vigorous but a reliable pro-
ducer, and susceptible to botrytis. It ripens
early in October, and despite its “Barbera-like”
name, it is apparently not so rich in acids.
Antica Masseria Venditti has always made a
wine called Barbetta that I have followed over
the years. Pleasant and easygoing, it has a juicy,
savory quality to its red-cherry and delicate
herbal fl avors. A well-made, medium-bodied
red wine, it's ideal with hearty fare. Anna Bosco
also makes an impressive, more fl oral (gera-
nium and rose, with hints of underbrush) ver-
sion with the usual barbera-like juicy, fresh
acidity. The wine also ages very well, and I have
had the chance to try bottles going back to 2007
numerous times. Though the 2007 might
be beginning to fade, the 2008 is still drinking
splendidly, and the 2009 is the best of all
thus far.
Barbera del Sannio
where it's found:
Campania.
national reg-
istry code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
Froio was the fi rst to call this variety Bar-
bera del Sannio, for its morphological resem-
blance to Piedmont's Barbera. In fact, the vari-
ety had been previously described fi rst by
Gasparrini (1844) and later by Semmola (1848),
by the name of Lugliese or Lugliatica. It is not
yet offi cially recognized in the National Regis-
wines to try:
Antica Masseria Venditti** (Bar-
betta), Anna Bosco** (Armonico), A'
Cancellera.
Barbera Sarda
where it's found:
Sardinia.
national regis-
try code number:
21.
color:
red.
