Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
dant in the area. However, Caronelli was not
thrilled by the variety's enological potential,
mainly because farmers preferred planting
higher-yielding, low-quality biotypes known as
Verdisone as opposed to the better Verdiso
Gentile. According to Caronelli, Verdisone is
characterized by greater productivity, much
larger bunches and berries, thinner and
greener skins, and a more neutral, less sweet
pulp and wine.
Molon (1906) later recorded the existence of
a Verdisa Grossa
(
or Verdiso de Campagna)
and a Verdise Zentil (or Verdiso Gentile), but
we know today that the two are not biotypes but
are simply adaptations of Verdiso to different
environments. When the cultivar is grown in
deep, excessively fertile and wet soils, it tends to
grow in size and look and behave like a Ver-
disone, while if those same vines are brought
back to poorer hillside sites the grapevine
morphs back to the Verdiso phenotype. This
also appears true of another Verdiso biotype
that was described by the Conte Pietro di Mani-
ago in 1823, which he called Verdisa Lunga (or
Strascalone). According to research, Verdiso is
identical to Pedevenda, a variety typically asso-
ciated with the Colli Euganei (Crespan, Cancel-
lier, Costacurta, Giust, Carraro, Di Stefano, and
Santangelo 2003). Verdiso has also been used
to two different laboratory crossings, called
Italica and Flavis, both Verdiso × Graˇevina
crossings. Graˇevina is probably better known,
and recognized, by the names Riesling Italico
or Welschriesling.
Verdiso grows in Veneto, especially in the
countrysides of Conegliano, Vittorio Veneto,
and Valdobbiadene near Treviso, and also in the
Refrontolo hills.
believed to be Verdicchio). Verdiso has always
been added to these other varieties for its fresh-
ness and acid lift. Pedevenda is associated with
the DOC Breganze and is used in small per-
centages in the Torcolato sweet wine blend.
A very good verdiso is a thing of beauty:
mouth-searingly fresh, extremely crisp, a smor-
gasbord of white fl owers and green apples, with
hints of ripe apricots in the background. Not
particularly complex and not ageworthy, it will
prove remarkably successful on any hot day by
the pool or on a picnic by the sea or lakeshore;
but its lack of almost any complexity whatso-
ever can turn some tasters off. It can be made
both as a still wine or a sparkling one, and
though I prefer the still version, both are satis-
fying, though too many producers limit them-
selves to churning out a high-acid, high-volume
wine. Angelo Sabbadin, the sommelier in
Veneto's famous three-Michelin-star Le Calan-
dre restaurant near Padova, says pointedly, “I
hate to be negative, but the fact is Verdiso grows
well just about anywhere, and the resulting
wine is always palatable. This has led many pro-
ducers to just go with the fl ow and really not try
too hard.” Nevertheless, thanks to its high acid-
ity, low alcohol level, and crisp, fresh fragrances
and fl avors, verdiso is currently enjoying a
popularity boom and there are an increasing
number of monovarietal bottlings being made.
wines to try:
Gregoletto***, Toffoli***, Il
Colle**, and Conte Collalto**.
Verduzzo Friulano
where it's found:
FVG, Veneto.
national
registry code number:
256.
color:
white.
Verduzzo Friulano is, like Picolit and Ribolla
Gialla, an emblematic cultivar of Friuli Venezia
Giulia. The variety and the wine have been
closely linked to the region for centuries, and it
likely descends from a domesticated local wild
vine. There are two Verduzzo Friulano subvari-
eties in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Verduzzo Giallo
and Verduzzo Verde (a distinction made for the
fi rst time by Poggi in 1939 based on the color of
Which Wines to Choose and Why
The main wines are DOCG Conegliano-Valdob-
biadene and DOC Colli di Conegliano: the lat-
ter wines can often be monovarietal Verdiso.
Verdiso is blended with Glera in various Pro-
secco wines, and also with the sweet Torchiato
di Fregona wines, made from air-dried grapes
(the latter blend also includes Boschera, now
