Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
the objective of identifying and characterizing
local native cultivars. The morphologic and
genetic studies performed identifi ed many
native varieties and in particular, Uva del
Tundè (also rarely called Uve del Tondini), now
included in the National Registry. The name
appears to derive from a farmer named Primo
Tondini (del Tundè means “of Tundè,” or “of
Tond i n i” ) , who fi rst selected, or discovered, the
variety in his vineyards between 1932 and
1956. His daughter Ines then continued her
father's work with passion and energy, continu-
ing to grow the variety on her estate, and today
all us wine lovers can only thank them for their
efforts. Fontana, Filippetti, Intrieri, and Pas-
tore (2007) proved it to be distinct from other
varieties listed at the time in the National Reg-
istry based on ampelographic, isoenzymatic,
and molecular analysis. Genetic analysis hints
that Uva del Tundè may be related to Calabria's
Magliocco Canino, with which it appears to
share alleles at many loci (thirteen out of
twenty examined).
The variety is characterized by a medium-
sized, cylindrical-pyramidal bunch and
medium to medium-small, round berries. It
has very strong vigor and a high basal fertility.
The correct name for this cultivar is Uva di
Troia, as listed in the National Registry and as
written in the fi rst published guide to Italy's
native grapes and wines (D'Agata, Sabellico,
Aiello, Arru, Buffa, Di Cintio, et al. 2003),
though Nero di Troia has taken hold in the
twenty-fi rst century (more often used to indi-
cate the wine). This variety is another sterling
example of what the renewed interest in native
grapes has meant for wine lovers and produc-
ers, with a considerable intellectual, hedonistic,
and fi nancial windfall for everyone involved.
When I was co-writing the Puglia section of the
Gambero Rosso
annual wine guide at the begin-
ning of the twenty-fi rst century, along with soul
and drinking mates Paolo Zaccaria and Marco
Sabellico of the Gambero, the rise to promi-
nence of Uva di Troia and its wines was all too
obvious. If memory serves, in 2001 there were
only about two or three Uva di Troia wines pre-
sented in the regional preliminary blind tast-
ings I was co-leading for the guide. In 2002
there were six or seven, and so I suggested we
create our fi rst-ever blind tasting series of only
Uva di Troia wines, though not all were con-
vinced it was worth the time and energy to do
so. However, only one year later, in 2003 the
Uva di Troia bottlings sent to us were legion,
and Sabellico and Zaccaria were the fi rst in line
in creating a section of Uva di Troia wines to be
tasted blind!
Uva di Troia is now used to make an ever-
increasing number of monovarietal wines or
blends of all types, even
rosati
and white wines.
Importantly, it adds considerable fi nesse and
freshness to wines containing Primitivo, Mon-
tepulciano, or Negro Amaro, one of the reasons
it was always viewed as a good blending grape.
In the process, Uva di Troia has contributed to
economic growth in Puglia's Castel del Monte
area, known mainly for its weird yet wonderful
octagonal Templar castle built by King Federico
II. Today, everyone in Italy associates Castel del
Monte with Uva di Troia, a situation analogous
to the identifi cation of Sicily with Nero d'Avola.
And as an added bonus, the bright lights that
have shined on Uva di Troia have also lit up
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Currently, the wine is produced only in
Romagna and can be used in IGT blends such
as Dell'Emilia, Forlì, Ravenna, and Rubicone.
The wine is deep ruby-purple and has complex
aromas of red berries (strawberry, raspberry)
and hints of underbrush, with juicy, fruity fl a-
vors and smooth tannins on the midweight
fi nish.
wines to try:
Sbarzaglia** (Silente, the entry-
level wine, and Sospiro, the
riserva
). Some wine
is also bottled by the Tondini family, at their
bed-and-breakfast, Azdora.
Uva di Troia
where it's found:
Puglia.
national registry
code number:
247.
color:
red.
