Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
hundred Greek and southern Italian native vari-
eties and found very little genetic affinity
between the two groups, raising the doubts that
many of southern Italy's native grapes, such as
the
Malvasia
s and Aglianico, are of Greek origin,
as was once commonly believed. Of course,
these results do not prove the “nativeness” of
these cultivars beyond doubt, because genetic
modifi cations may have been induced subse-
quently to their arrival on Italian shores. How-
ever, Scienza has explained to me that he
believes that Aglianico to be not at all of Greek
origin, but rather a natural crossing between a
local species and an oriental one. To date how-
ever, its progenitors have not yet been identifi ed.
The other secondary domestication center rele-
vant to Italy's natives covered an area akin to
what is now Provence and northern Italy. Accord-
ing to Scienza, varieties such as Picolit, Pignolo,
all the many different
Refosco
s, Oseleta, Abros-
tine, the many
Lambrusco
s, Glera, and the
Grop-
pello
s appear to be native to this part of Italy,
though many were later brought elsewhere.
reasonably competent winemaking, to produce
something palatable. Unfortunately, Italy's
many native varieties were neither studied nor
blessed with gifted winemaking; consequently,
the wines they gave were more often than not
unstable, dirty, and easily oxidized. It is easy to
understand why few realized that grapes such
as Malvasia Puntinata, Passerina, or Pecorino
could yield high-quality wines.
Each one of the following events contributed
to the loss of native varieties in Italy, or to their
diminished distribution.
1850
S
-1900
S
:
ADVENT
OF
OIDIUM
,
PERONOSPORA
,
AND
PHYLLOXERA
Practically all of Europe's vineyards
are damaged by oidium and peronospora, and
fi nally destroyed by phylloxera (an aphid that
feeds on the roots of European grape varieties
and kills them inexorably)—and Italy's were no
exception. The only surviving vineyards are
those planted at high mountain altitudes or in
sandy soils, two habitats in which the aphid
does not survive. Phylloxera is responsible for
the disappearance of many varieties through-
out Europe, though the exact number of the lost
is not known.
Back to the Twentieth Century
Although Italy's native grapes and wines are
currently on a roll, the last 150 years or so have
not been easy on Italy's many grape varieties:
many became extinct and some are still at risk
of disappearing. Though continued genetic ero-
sion of Italy's native varietal base was a leading
cause of concern up to fi fteen years ago, the
recent focus on native grapes has inverted that
worrisome trend. So why did so many varieties,
both high quality and not, run the risk of
becoming endangered species? In general,
most native varieties present one or more
fl aws—or qualities perceived as fl aws—such as
low yields, which were a big no-no for most of
the twentieth century in Italy. Knowledge of
these qualities led many a winemaker to pass
up native grapes in favor of international varie-
ties, which are much easier to work with. For
varieties like Chardonnay and Merlot, there
exist simple, highly researched winemaking
protocols that allow just about anyone, given
1920 -1930:
POST
-
PHYLLOXERA
WAVE
OF
PLANTINGS
Replanting vineyards, farmers give preference
to the most resistant and productive varieties, a
selection process that limits the genetic vari-
ability and varietal diversity of grapes all over
the country.
1950
S
-1970
S
:
RENOVATION
OF
VITICULTURE
PRODUC
-
TION
OBJECTIVES
AND
THE
ROLE
OF
FEOGA
The Com-
mon Agricultural Policy (CAP), a system of
European Union agricultural subsidies and
programs, is born with the 1957 Treat y of Rome.
In the aftermath of the food shortage of post-
WWII Europe, CAP is meant to guarantee
adequate alimentary production, to ensure
farmers a reasonable standard of living, and to
preserve rural heritage. The European Fund
for Agricultural Orientation and Guarantee
(Fondo Europeo di Orientamento e Garanzia in
Agricoltura, or FEOGA), since renamed the
