Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Nera are always fresher and more perfumed
than those featuring additions of Cabernet
Sauvignon or Merlot, which while fl eshier and
richer, rarely have the gracefulness and bal-
ance of the best Chianti classicos made with
only native grapes. Over in Montalcino, there is
a world of difference between Brunellos (and
Rossos) made in the northern exposed sites as
compared to the much warmer, drier southern
ones. Brunello di Montalcino made near the
town itself, or just north of it, is usually lithe
and refi ned, with redcurrant and sour red-
cherry aromas and fl avors to go along with at
times mouth-searing acidity. By contrast,
wines made from the southeastern and south-
western sectors of the Montalcino production
zone (around the towns of Castelnuovo
de l l'Abate a nd Sa nt 'A n ge lo i n Col le, resp e c-
tively) are characterized by riper red-cherry
and even dark plum aromas and fl avors. These
wines have also much fl eshier and richer
mouthfeels and at times can almost seem like
different wines. Such is the ability of Sangio-
vese to translate even minor differences in
microclimates and soils into wine.
Sangiovese di Romagna can also be a very
interesting wine, though its reputation has
been sullied by too many thin and tart wines of
no interest. That said, many of the hilariously
dark, award-winning Sangiovese wines made
in Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna in the last de-
cade (wines smelling of tar, black pepper,
graphite, and other atypical Sangiovese aromas
and fl avors) are just as bad as the previously
described lot. True, Sangiovese from Emilia-
Romagna gives wines that are usually slightly
darker in hue and richer in body than most
Tuscan examples of Sangiovese. Though they
rarely share the complexity of the fi nest 100
percent Sangiovese supertuscans, the best
examples are rich and satisfying and are bound
to surprise wine lovers who never thought of
trying them. The Marche's two best-known dry
reds are Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero, the
latter recently subdivided into a Conero DOCG
wine and the simpler Rosso Conero. In essence,
both Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero were
always Sangiovese-Montepulciano blends, the
lighter Rosso Piceno historically containing
more Sangiovese. Since Rosso Piceno is the
most extensive of all of the Marche DOCs, cov-
ering a large and diverse territory, variation in
wine styles is to be expected. While many wines
are Montepulciano top-heavy, many Rosso
Picenos are light and fruity, and locals love to
drink them even with fi sh dishes, such as the
hearty soup called
brodetto anconetano.
Very good California producers of Sangiovese
include Dalla Valle, Duxoup, Robert Pepi, Segh-
esio, and Shafer, while in Washington State, Leo-
netti comes to mind. Zonin makes an herbal-
accented Sangiovese w ine in Virginia. Sangiovese
is also grown in Canada: Pillitteri in Ontario and
D'Angelo in British Columbia are good choices.
In Australia good producers include De Bortoli,
Mount Langi Ghiram, and Pizzini; in New Zea-
land, I can think of Heron's Flight. Terre da Capo
is a solid South African example.
wines to try:
For Chianti Rufi na, try: Selvapi-
ana***, Colognole**, Frascole**, Fresco-
baldi**, Grignano**, I Veroni**, and
Travignoli**. For Chianti Classico, try: Badia a
Coltibuono***, Capannelle***, Castellare***,
Castello di Ama*** (Vigneto Bellavista), Fon-
todi*** (also the 100 percent Sangiovese Flac-
cianello), Isole e Olena (also the 100 percent
Sangiovese Cepparello), Monte Vertine (no
Chianti Classico made, but the 100 percent
Sangiovese Le Pergole Torte is one of Italy's
greatest wines), and San Giusto a Rentennano
(also the 100 percent Sangiovese Percarlo). For
Brunello di Montalcino, try: Poggio di Sotto***,
Il Poggione***, Pian dell'Orino***, Sali-
cutti***, Stella di Campalto***, Biondi Santi**,
Col d'Orcia, Costanti**, Cupano**, Fuligni**,
Il Mar roneto* *, Le Potazzine* *, Lisini* *, Mas-
trojanni**, Piancornello**, and Siro Pacenti**;
and there are many more. For Grechetto Rosso,
try: Occhipinti** (Caldera).
Schiavas
See
SCHIAVA
GROUP
, chapter 3.
