Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
least, that one region's Passerina grape is most
likely a variety distinct from that of other
regions.
Marche. Even worse, around the town of Rogli-
ano Calabro, Pecorello Bianco is called Greco
Bianco, and the last thing needed is more con-
fusion regarding that variety. In reality,
Pecorello Bianco has only recently begun to
resurface: a good thing, as it will hopefully get
more producers to stop mindlessly planting
Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Bianco in ultrahot
regions of Italy's deep south.
Not much has been written about Pecorello
Bianco, but Marchi and Lanati (2008) have
studied the grape and wine constituents.
Pecorello Bianco is characterized by good total
acidity yet has high pH values. The aromatic
components in the grapes are mainly of benze-
noid origin, such as 2-phenylethanol, benzylic
acid, and 4-vinylguiacole; and even though
Pecorello Bianco is a nonaromatic variety, it has
relatively high concentrations of terpenes,
which makes for an interesting monovarietal
wine. Its ampelographic description is diffi cult
because different growers called distinct varie-
ties by the same name; even the National Reg-
istry's very short description refers to blue-
colored berries, in reference to the grape that
was previously listed by this name. It follows
that until more research is done we won't know
exactly what Pecorello is all about. Apparently,
Pecorello Bianco is very common in Calabria,
particularly in the Valle del Savuto and in the
provinces of Catanzaro and Cosenza, especially
in the latter.
wines to try:
From the Marche, try: Cocci Gri-
foni*** (Adamantea), San Giovanni** (Offi da
Passerina), Saputi** (they believe Passerina's
future is in sparkling wines and plan to pro-
duce a sparkler soon), Castello Fageto*
(Letizia), Centanni*, and Le Caniette* (Luc-
rezia and Vino Santo). Villa Pigna's Majia bot-
tling contains 15 percent Sauvignon Blanc and
Chardonnay, so, though good, it's not my idea
of a Passerina wine worth recommending to
see what the variety is about. From Abruzzo,
try: Lidia e Amato** (Elena), Barone di Val-
forte**, Faraone** (Trebbiano d'Abruzzo;
though their wine is so-labeled because the
grapes were originally thought to be Trebbiano
Abruzzese, but are actually Passerina), Agri-
Verde* (Riseis), Anfra*, Camillo Montori*
(Trend), Cioti* (Pathernus), and San Lorenzo
Vini*. From Lazio, try: Terenzi*** (Villa Santa)
and Casale della Ioria** (Collebianco).
Pecorello Bianco
where it's found:
Calabria.
national regis-
try code number:
183.
color:
white.
Pecorello Bianco is another of the many
grapes in Italy whose name is linked to sheep:
either because the sheep liked to eat the grapes,
or more likely because the ripe grapes were fod-
der for sheepherders who walked their grazing
herds from valley to valley for weeks on end.
Interestingly, this variety is often just called
Pecorello (and that's still the name used in the
National Registry), but this leads to consider-
able confusion. In fact, Pecorello is a red variety
previously listed in the National Registry, while
the variety described here is a white grape and
was not originally included. This has been rec-
tifi ed: this white grape is now listed instead of
the red one. In any event, Pecorello Bianco is
also called Pecorello di Rogliano and, unfortu-
nately, Pecorino, which is instead a distinct and
by now famous variety from Abruzzo and the
Which Wines to Choose and Why
The variety has always been blended with other
local grapes to make light, easygoing white
wines and is usually present in signifi cant per-
centages in the wines of the DOC Donnici. I
don't remember having tried many wines said
to be made with this grape and so I cannot
characterize the wines made with it. Perhaps in
the near future more Pecorello Bianco wines
will be made, giving us all a chance to learn
more about the grape and wine.
wines to try:
Ceraudo** (owner Roberto Cer-
audo wanted to see what the grape could offer
