Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Apparently, Pascale has sixteen alleles in com-
mon with Gregu Nieddu, on nine of the twelve
loci analyzed thus far.
Pascale is characterized by medium-large
bunches and berries; the former are either
conical or pyramidal, the latter round. It is a
very vigorous variety and a dependable pro-
ducer, though it is sensitive to oidium.
rect. Some decided to refer to it as another of
the many
Trebbiano
s (Trebbiano Scenciato near
Chieti, Trebbiano Dorato near Pescara, Trebbi-
ano Camplese around Teramo and L'Aquila),
while others chose names illustrating its ten-
dency to produce large quantities of grapes
(and hence wine) by which farmers could pay
off their debts (Cacciadebito, Scacciadebito,
Pagadebito, the latter not to be confused with
the similarly named variety of Emilia-
Romagna, Pagadebit). Another synonym, Uva
d'Oro, also refers to Passerina's golden
(d'oro)
penchant for helping farmers make ends meet.
Rarer synonyms include Camplese and Uva
Fermana, while the synonym Caccione is best
avoided, as it engenders confusion with Cacchi-
one, a distinct variety grown in Lazio. Of
course, it may also be that many of these differ-
ently named grapes may in fact be distinct vari-
eties, unrelated to Passerina, but we have no
way of knowing until SSR profi ling and accu-
rate ampelographic tests are performed. This
can be diffi cult because often these old varie-
ties are limited to very few old vines growing
haphazardly in vineyards dotting the country-
side, and because many a “Passerina” vine is in
fact something else.
Some believe the name Passerina derives
from the small dimension of this cultivar's
berries and that it was also one of the so-called
uve uzeline
(bird grapes) of northern Italy,
those sweet grapes particularly sought after
by gluttonous birds. However, the Cocci Gri-
foni sisters, who arguably make the best Pas-
serina wine in all of the Marche, do not agree
at all. Paola is especially decisive when she
states, “No, I have never, ever, heard that
before.” Strange, as it seems to make sense to
me, but I defer to her experience on the
subject.
Passerina displays quite a bit of intravarietal
variability. Abruzzo's Passerina is character-
ized by more intensely colored yellow grapes,
which are dotted, than those of Lazio and the
Marche. In southwestern Lazio, Pina Terenzi
of the Terenzi estate near Frosinone, points
out that their Passerina appears to be a closer
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Despite its other commonly used name of Pas-
cale di Cagliari, this variety is more common
in other parts of the island and represents
20 percent of the vines planted in the province of
Sassari. Currently, there are more than 1,250 hec-
tares under vine to Pascale, so it's not that rare. It
seems to do best in dry granitic-calcareous soils.
There are no 100 percent Pascale DOC wines,
and it has always been used in blends with Can-
nonao, to which it confers freshness and grace.
Tonino Arcadu, the passionate, talented owner
and winemaker of the high-quality Gostolai
estate, has also made experimental lots of Pascale
wine that is fresh and easygoing, but he hasn't yet
decided to bottle it commercially.
wines to try:
Dettori*** (the fi rst to make an
excellent pure IGT bottling, Ottomarzo, that
shouldn't be missed).
Passerina
where it's found:
Abruzzo, Marche, Lazio.
national registry code number:
181. Color:
white.
Passerina is another complicated popula-
tion of grape varieties, with members that
aren't related at all. For example, I believe the
Passerina of southeastern Lazio is radically dif-
ferent from the Passerina of the Marche and
Abruzzo, and I'm not alone in this conviction.
However, all these grapes share at least some
features in common, such as a general hardi-
ness, disease resistance, and reliable productiv-
ity. With those characteristics, it follows that
farmers liked having Passerina around, which
explain its many synonyms, erroneous and cor-
