Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Neretto di Bairo
Neretto di Bairo is grown mainly in the
province of Turin, though it is also found in the
provinces of Vercelli and Novara (where,
wouldn't you know it, locals call it by a different
name, Vermiglia, though Vermiglia is a syno-
nym more correctly used for a different variety,
Neretto Gentile). This is why Neretto vines such
as Neretto di Bairo can be seen in many vine-
yards of Gattinara, where the world-famous
wine of the same name is made.
where it's found: Piedmont. national reg-
istry code number: 167. color: red.
Also known as Neretto di San Giorgio,
Nerét, Nerét Gros, Nerét a Cuceglia, and Val-
perga, Neretto di Bairo is but one of many Ner-
etto varieties, most of which are completely
unrelated but all so named because of the ber-
ries' dark hue. In this respect, Neretto di Bairo
resembles Neretto Gentile but is different from
Neretto Duro, Neretto di Salto, and Neretto
Nostrano, extremely rare local varieties. Well
known already in the nineteenth century, it was
described by Gallesio ([1817] 1839). Studies
indicate that Neretto di Bairo is a likely progeny
of Nebbiolo and another, perhaps extinct local
variety (Schneider, Boccacci, Torello Marinoni,
Botta, Akkak, and Vouillamoz 2004). A 2007
study by Di Vecchi Staraz, Bandinelli, Boselli,
This, Boursiquot, Laucou, Lacombe, et al. also
suggested a parent-offspring relationship
between Neretto di Bairo and Mammolo. If
these results are true, it would mean that either
Neretto di Bairo or Mammolo had to have been
grown, at one point in time, either in Tuscany
or Piedmont, respectively, but I don't think I've
ever seen documentation to that effect.
Ampelographically, Neretto di Bairo has a
large, pyramidal compact bunch and small oval
dark-blue berries. It's a resistant variety, but
spring frosts and showers are a problem due to
early fl owering, and it's susceptible to mill-
erandage. Many growers have told me it does
very well with old pergola canopy training sys-
tems, while results are less impressive with the
Guyot system. In the past, a little Avarengo was
added to Neretto di Bairo: the very sweet Ava-
rengo grapes would induce a secondary fer-
mentation in the wine, turning it into a deli-
cately frothy, fruity sparkler. Unfortunately,
Neretto di Bairo's ripening period coincides
with that of Erbaluce, placing it at a disadvan-
tage; the latter is the area's most important
grape variety and so most estates pay little
attention to a Neretto that is rare and therefore
less important for their economic survival.
Which Wines to Choose and Why
DOC wines are Pinerolese or Valsusa Neretto
(where it is blended in with Barbera, Nebbiolo,
and others), but monovarietal wines are hard to
fi nd. The best wine of all is the Canavese Rosso
Neretto by Cieck (also one of the star producers
of Erbaluce). Owner Domenico Caretto, whose
wines are the benchmark for the variety and that
seem less tannic to me than they used to be (the
2010 seems about half as tannic as the 2004 and
2005), told me, “We have purposely worked on
our winemaking to create a wine that is a little
more fruit-forward and less tannic than before.
Now we macerate only ten days and it has made
all the difference.” No temperature control, but
the wine is pure and precise, with lovely red fruit
and grapey aromas and a nice sweet fl eshiness
on the long, almondy fi nish. You'd never guess it
sat in tonneaux for more than nine months.
Think of this as a richer Bourgogne Villages.
wines to try: Cieck*** (Canavese Rosso
Neretto).
Nero Buono
where it's found: Lazio. national registry
code number: 168. color: red.
Nero Buono is one of Italy's least-known
native grape varieties, but as is often the case,
one that has a lot to say. No, the wines of
Musigny or Petrus need not quiver in their
boots, but the fact is that Nero Buono (which
means “good black grape”) can be the source
of excellent, midweight red wines. Legend
holds that it was brought to the area of Cori,
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