Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Nebbiolo Rosé
climate), Toccata, Urban Legend Cellars, and
Wind Gap. Randall Grahm used to make a
good Nebbiolo wine at Ca' del Solo, the certi-
fi ed biodynamic vineyard in Soledad he sold in
2009. Zonin has made a successful, if light-
ish, Nebbiolo wine in Virginia. Barolo and Bar-
baresco, for example, are some of the world's
longest-lived wines, but I am afraid we don't
yet know just how well New World Nebbiolo
will age. However, Montevina certainly made
wines that have aged well.
In Australia, Coriole, Di Lusso, Longview
Vineyard (both an excellent Boat Shed Rosé and a
Nebbiolo Riserva), Mount Surmon, Parish Hill,
Pizzini (both a Nebbiolo and a Coronamento
Nebbiolo bottling), and Sandhurst Ridge are just
some of the many sure bets. Curiously enough,
some of the most Nebbiolo-like Nebbiolo wines I
have tasted recently are made in Chile.
where it's found:
Piedmont, Lombardy, Valle
d'Aosta.
national registry code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
I love this grape: sure, wines made with
Nebbiolo are more complete and balanced, but
wines born from Nebbiolo Rosé have an utterly
compelling, mesmerizing perfume that is truly
unforgettable. However, it appears that per-
fume will only carry you so far, unfortunately.
It is telling of the diffi cult times Nebbiolo Rosé
has faced that when I asked Pio Boffa, one of
the nicest and better wine producers you are
liable to meet anywhere in the world, if he
owned any Nebbiolo Rosé vines, he vigorously
shook his head (in typical Pio Boffa style), say-
ing, “No, I hated it, and when I was younger I
used to rip it out every time I found a vine.”
This sentiment was shared by many other pro-
ducers, who weren't interested in a Nebbiolo
biotype (or so it was thought to be) character-
ized by slightly less acidity and very light hue
and tannic structure. Michele Chiarlo adds
more fuel to the fi re in noting that “we never
used it, because besides low color, it delivers
high alcohol.” Winemaker Luca Veglio of Odd-
ero adds: “I view Nebbiolo Rosé and its clone
CN 111 as a remnant of a viticulture of the past:
today nobody is interested in a similar grape.”
You can forgive Luca: a very talented wine-
maker, he is also a young man who has grown
up on modern behemoth-like wines, in a cli-
mate that until recently, systematically penal-
ized nuance and grace in all kinds of tastings.
Another extremely talented and passionate
young winemaker, Francesco Versio of Bruno
Giacosa, has a different point of view: “We have
a little Nebbiolo Rosé, and are happy to use it.
In fact, I really like the Marchesi di Gresy's
entry-level Barbaresco bottling, where 20 to 30
percent Nebbiolo Rosé is used: sure, it's lightly
colored and not hugely structured, but it's a
wine of amazing grace and refi nement.”
Of course, as Angelo Gaja points out in his
humorous, piercing style, there isn't that much
Nebbiolo Rosé around anyway: “Listen, I
wines to try:
Bruno Giacosa*** (Barolo Le
Rocche del Falletto Riserva, Barbaresco Asili
Riserva, Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva, Nebbiolo
d'Alba), Giacomo Conterno*** (Barolo Cascina
Francia and Monfortino), Gaja*** (Barbaresco),
Bartolo Mascarello** (Barolo), Giuseppe
(Mauro) Mascarello** (Barolo Monprivato,
Barolo Villero), Giuseppe Rinaldi** (Barolo
Brunate-Le Coste), Luciano Sandrone (Barolo
Cannubi Boschis and Barolo Le Vigne), Paolo
Scavino (Barolo Bric del Fiasc and Rocche
dell'Annunziata Riserva), Pio Cesare** (Barolo
and Barolo Ornato), Renato Ratti (Barolo Roc-
che), Elvio Cogno** (Barolo Bricco Pernice),
Ceretto** (Barolo Bricco Rocche Bricco Rocche
and Barolo Bricco Rocche Prapò), Marchese de
Gresy** (Barbaresco Camp Gros and Bar-
baresco Martinenga), Bruno Rocca** (Bar-
baresco Maria Adelaide and Rabajà), Giacomo
Fenocchio** (Barolo Villero), GD Vajra**
(Barolo Bricco delle Viole), Antoniolo** (Gatti-
nara Osso San Grato and San Francesco), Pro-
prietà Sperino** (Lessona), Antichi Vigneti di
Cantalupo** (Ghemme Collis Breclamae),
Produttori Donnas** (Donnas Napoléon), San-
dro Fay** (Sfursat), Mamete Prevostini**
(Sfursat), and Triacca** (Sfursat).
