Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
fi rst-degree relationship exists between these
two varieties as well. Clearly, just tasting the
wines (when made by similarly minded and
competent producers) demonstrates this as
well. The two varieties also look alike and
exhibit similar viticultural behaviors.
In this same study, and in Schneider, Torel-
lo Marinoni, Boccacci, and Botta (2005-6)
important results were presented on the genetic
relationships between Nebbiolo and other vari-
eties (local and not), analyzing the proportion
of shared alleles between the varieties (Bow-
cock, Ruiz-Linares, Tomfohrde, Minch, Kidd,
and Cavalli-Sforza 1994). Results showed the
ten closest relatives of Nebbiolo to be Negrera (a
little-known and rare variety from Valtellina in
Lombardy), Freisa, Nebbiolo Rosé, Vespolina,
Bubbierasco (a now extremely rare native of the
Salluzese area of Piedmont), Pignola, Ros-
solino Nero (another extremely rare variety),
Neretto di San Giorgio, Brugnola, and Rossola.
Based on an analysis of twelve microsatellite
markers and twenty-three to fi fty-eight SSR
loci, these varieties all appear to have a fi rst-
degree relationship with Nebbiolo (meaning
they could be either parents or offspring of the
main variety). The study authors believe any
major phenotypic difference present to be the
result of sporadic mutations. Of these varieties,
Bubbierasco is an offspring of Nebbiolo and
Bianchetto, but we don't yet know the status of
the other varieties relative to Nebbiolo. Interest-
ingly, eight of these related grapes grow and live
only in northern Lombardy's Valtellina area
(where Nebbiolo remains the major variety and
is the main player in important wines such as
Sfursat, Sassella, and Inferno).
The fact that all these cultivars are present
only in this part of Italy indicates that Nebbiolo
is most likely a true native of northwestern
Italy, where it mainly lives to this day. In par-
ticular, given the strong link of these varieties
with Lombardy's Valtellina, and Nebbiolo's
presence there, it is tempting, if somewhat dis-
heartening for the Piedmontese, to speculate
that Nebbiolo's original home is in fact Valtel-
lina, not Piedmont; but of course, all the related
cultivars of Nebbiolo could turn out to be just
the progeny of Nebbiolo and not its ancestors.
In noteworthy, if somewhat strange, results of
the same studies, varieties as wildly different as
Bressana, Ortrugo (a white grape from Emilia-
Romagna), and Chasselas (a white grape typi-
cal of Switzerland famously used to make the
delicious wine called Fendant du Valais) also
seem to show genetic proximity to Nebbiolo.
Mercifully, the results also show that other vari-
eties such as Barbera, Dolcetto, and Cabernet
Sauvignon are far removed genetically from
Nebbiolo (the genetic distance is estimated at
between 0.65 and 0.7, with a value of 1.00
being the maximum distance possible). I don't
know about you, but I fi nd immense solace in
the knowledge that Cabernet Sauvignon and
Nebbiolo are no relation at all.
Not All Nebbiolo Clones Are Created Equal
Much like with Sangiovese, clonal selection has
been extremely important for Nebbiolo, espe-
cially as the cultivar's anthocyanin endowment
is nothing to write home about. Furthermore,
though vigorous, Nebbiolo is characterized by
only medium fertility, especially in the basal
buds, and so productivity is very clone depen-
dent. However, for a good chunk of the 1990s
and into the twenty-fi rst century, the crux of
the (perceived) problem was Nebbiolo's bright
but lightly hued wines, with strong orangey
tinges even when young (with Nebbiolo wines,
garnet is not necessarily a sign of age), far
removed from the deep, almost black-ruby color
all the rage for “important” (or so deemed)
wines. Not surprisingly, producers clamored
for Nebbiolo's color to be kicked up a notch (or
two or three); and so the race was on to develop
the biggest, blackest (and meanest, to my way
of wine thinking) Nebbiolo clone possible.
Unfortunately, as is always the case and any
parent can tell you, when you go looking for
trouble you usually fi nd it, and so it was with
this particular well meaning but very mis-
guided quest.
Generally speaking, clones available to pro-
ducers in the 1970s and 1980s ranged from
