Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
(air-dried) red wines, as well as outstanding
rosato.
The latter can be labeled either Rosato or
Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo: the latter are bigger,
more tannic and acid, and more complex, with
remarkable ageworthiness—a good fi ve- or six-
year Cerasuolo is not uncommon. Issued from
longer macerations on the skins, these are the
best
rosato
wines of Italy, along with those of
the Salento in Puglia and the Chiarettos of the
Garda in northern Italy. But the Cerasuolo
wines are usually more mineral, deep, and
complex and fl eshier than most other
rosati,
and not just Italy's. Furthermore, they are rarely
marked by residual sugar as many blush or rosé
wines often are.
In the dry red wine version, Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo, can be either light and easygoing or
massive and rich, loaded with ripe red-cherry
fruit and more delicate herb nuances, with very
soft, thick tannins. My own impression is that
Montepulciano rarely delivers, even in the most
important and expensive bottlings, wines of
mind-blowing complexity—save for a few
examples—and rarely improves much after ten
years in the bottle. Also, far too many of the
top-of-the-line Montepulciano wines are over-
oaked. Though in theory, longer maceration
times and high-quality oak should bless us
with Montepulciano wines of great breeding,
structure, and complexity, this seems rarely the
case. Off odors are always a possibility with
Montepulciano and so
délestage
and pumping
over, or any technique that helps maximize air
contact with the wine and the lees, is very help-
ful, though too much early racking may cause
the release of harsher tannins.
There are an impressive number of New
Zealand wineries churning out noteworthy
Montepulciano wines from grapes grown in
Nelson (Blackenbrook Vineyard makes a pow-
erful rendition), Marlborough (Framingham
makes a good one), and Waiheke Island (for
example, Obsidian's excellent Weeping Sands
bottling). Given Montepulciano's renowned
diffi culty in ripening fully and properly, cool
climate New Zealand is an interesting if poten-
tially diffi cult place in which to make monte-
pulciano: but if Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
can be successful in the country's warmer
zones, so can Montepulciano.
In Australia, notable Montepulciano wines
are being made by Banrock Station, Bassham,
Brown Brothers (Cellar Door Release), By
Jingo Wines, Cirami Estate, First Drop (Min-
chia), Galvanized Wine Group, Kimbolton
(Special Release Bard's Block Langhorne Vine-
yard), Mr. Riggs Wine Company, Oak Works,
Springton Hills (a cabernet-grenache-montep-
ulciano blend), Staffordshire Lane, and Whis-
tling Kite. The warm and dry Riverland area
seems to be very well suited to this grape. In
the United States, Duchman Family Winery in
Texas or Riffaldini Winery in North Carolina
will ward off any “same as usual” wine blues
you might be having. Another “I can't believe
they're making it there,” 100 percent Montep-
ulciano wine worth getting to know, and not
just for its novelty factor, is by Witch Creek,
which is made in San Diego using Mexican
fruit. Seven Artisans in Suisun Valley is
another good example, while Mahoney Vine-
yards in Carneros is making a Montepulciano
blend. I've also had an excellent Montepulciano
from the cask in New Mexico (Luna Rossa Win-
ery), one of the two best New Mexican wines I
have had made from an Italian variety. Also,
Cougar Vineyards in California makes a lovely
dry Blush. Pardon me, I meant
rosato
or
Cerasuolo!
wines to try:
Valentini*** (the best of all,
extremely ageworthy), Marina Cvetic*** (S.
Martino Rosso, rare in that everyone seems to
like it), Torre dei Beati*** (Cocciapazza espe-
cially, but Mazzamurello is great too), Cataldi
Madonna*** (Toni especially, but Malandrino
is a good example of a lighter-styled montepul-
ciano), Emidio Pepe* (give it plenty of air by
decanting at least three hours ahead), Italo
Pietrantonj** (Arboreo and Cerano), Tiberio**,
Zaccagnini** (San Clemente; a thicker, richer
style that has recently seemed tough and
bitter), Fratelli Barba*, Masciarelli* (Villa
Gemma, slightly overoaked; I prefer the Marina
