Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
and Grando (2007) is one of the two parents of
Sangiovese (according to this study, the other is
Ciliegiolo). Were this true, then Magliocco
Canino would be either a half-sibling or a
grandparent of Sangiovese. I caution readers
though that the Ciliegiolo × Calabrese di Mon-
tenuovo crossing that is presumed to have given
birth to Sangiovese is not supported by other
data; actually there are two studies that have
reached different conclusions. It might be more
prudent to wait until further analysis of the
complex relationships of Sangiovese, Magliocco
Canino, and other varieties has been per-
formed. Furthermore, Pellerone, Edwards and
Thomas (2001) have shown that Magliocco
Canino may be distantly related to Sicily's
Perricone.
The name Magliocco Canino derives from
two different sources.
Magliocco
indicates a
knot or closed fi st and thus a small and com-
pact bunch (much like the
Groppello
s). How-
ever, since Magliocco Canino's bunch is any-
thing but small (it's medium-large, on average
450 grams) with long wings dripping down the
sides and is also very loosely packed, I wonder.
Other
Magliocco
s are characterized by small
bunches, but not this one. The
canino
part of
the name is believed to come from the fact that
the sweet grapes were enthusiastically eaten by
dogs (or
canini
). Of course, this being Italy,
there are many who completely disagree. In any
case, Magliocco Canino is characterized by very
dark blue-black skins, and the grape's anthocy-
anin profile shows high concentrations of
malvin (a whopping 78 percent of the total fi ve
monomeric anthocyanins) and 16 percent
acylated anthocyanins. The wealth of similarly
stable pigments explains why Magliocco
Canino wines have deep, long-lasting colors.
The variety is particularly rich in benzenoids
and alcohols, especially benzilic acid, 4-vinil-
guaiacole, and hexanol. The grape has strong
vigor but poor fertility and productivity and is
sensitive to droughty conditions (yet another
noteworthy difference between this cultivar
and Magliocco, which is strongly vigorous
and
fertile). Magliocco Canino is grown all over
aromas of
-damascenone (which also
enhances those due to ethyl cinnamate and
caproate while reducing the herbal ones of
3-isobutyl-2-methoxypyrazine (IBMP), and the
wines have a low olfactory perception thresh-
old. They can be surprisingly good and far
removed from the sometimes tough and angu-
lar tannins of wines made with Gaglioppo or
Magliocco Canino.
β
wines to try:
Librandi*** (Magno Megonio)
is always a sure bet. If we are to believe that
Lacrima and Magliocco Dolce are identical,
then try: Feudi di Sanseverino*** (Lacrima
Nero), Cantine Gallicchio**, and Tenute
Ferrocinto**.
Magliocco Canino
where it's found:
Calabria.
national regis-
try code number:
125.
color:
red.
According to De Bonis (2002), the fi rst offi -
cial mention of a Magliocca variety (with a ter-
minal
a
) in Calabria dates back to the 1500s,
though there is no way to know which cultivar
was really being described. Trouble is, there are
many
Magliocco
varieties in Calabria, most of
which are not closely related. Magliocco Canino
is also called Magliocco Ovale (due to the char-
acteristic oval shape of its berries, different
from all the other
Magliocco
s) and at times No-
cera, a mistake, since the latter is a distinct vari-
ety more typical of Sicily (morphologically, it
resembles Magliocco more than it does
Magliocco Canino). Magliocco Canino should
not be confused with the other
Magliocco
s, for
only Magliocco (also called Magliocco Tondo or
Magliocco Dolce) is qualitatively valid as a wine
grape. Confusion is such that Marchi and
Lanati (2008) determined that what was being
called Magliocco Dolce in the Lamezia area of
Calabria was in fact a biotype of Magliocco
Canino. It has been suggested that Magliocco
Canino could have a parent-offspring relation-
ship with an extremely rare variety called Cala-
brese di Montenuovo, which according to Vouil-
lamoz, Monaco, Costantini, Stefanini, Scienza,
